Tonight’s deliciously classy Champagne bonus is like that proverbial “little black dress”–dripping with understated elegance and subtle, sophisticated charm. But to take the simile a step further, imagine that dress being handmade by an excellent tailor, using the best materials available. Perhaps the tailor used to work for a famous fashion house, but this dress does not have a designer label, it is instead perfectly bespoke. This is Diebolt-Vallois’ “Prestige,” using the best Chardonnay from top Grand Cru villages in the Côtes de Blancs, aging and blending it to achieve exquisite balance. The delicate perlage and subtle complexity are the result of Diebolt’s generations of winemaking experience; they are expert “tailors,” aka growers, and it shows. So go ahead, slip into this gorgeous classic and enjoy the evening, it will make you feel glorious!
Nestled in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, Diebolt-Vallois has been family run from the village of Cramant since 1959, although the Diebolts have been cultivating vines since the 15th century. Jacques Diebolt and his wife, Nadia Vallois, along with their children, Isabelle and Arnaud, have elevated the Diebolt-Vallois domaine into a name synonymous with quality and magnificent champagne. Today’s non-vintage Cuvée Préstige is one of their top wines and easily delivers one of the finest Champagnes on the market for the price.
Derived from 100% Grand Cru, east and southeast exposed vineyards from some of the most celebrated mature parcels in the villages of Cramant, Avize and Les Mesnil, this Blanc de Blanc, Cuvée Préstige, is a Champagne of pure Chardonnay, that is 85% of two “base” vintages (2016 and 2017) fermented and raised in steel tanks, and 15% of a perpetual solera aged in large oak casks that dates to 2009. The wine matures on its lees prior to assemblage, which takes place one year after the youngest vintage (in this case 2018), and then ages in bottle for a whopping five years prior to disgorgement, where it receives a low 3-5 grams per liter of dosage. The overall aging period is much, much longer than the AOC requires for a non-vintage, delivering a wine with ample texture, nuttiness and richness.
Diebolt-Vallois’ “Prestige” has a bright golden yellow core that moves to green and gold reflections on the rim and exhibits fine, persistent beading in the glass. Serve in a good, all-purpose stem and once the wine has five minutes to breathe, the nose will reveal intense mineral aromas alongside preserved yellow apple and preserved lemon infused with white flowers, freshly baked biscuits, almond oil, lees and a hint of chalk. The palate fills out more and more as the wine sheds CO2 and uplifts the dried yellow fruits from the nose with notes of rising bread dough, lees and distinctly minerality. This particular disgorgement took place within the last year and has many years of life ahead. Those with patience to cellar this beautiful example will discover Nirvana in 5-7 years. So try to forget about a few in the dark corner of your cellar.
