Having called Meursault home since the 1890s, Domaine Boyer-Martenot has evolved into one of its most prestigious and classic interpreters, bottling no less than nine cuvées with the $100+ standouts being Premier Cru titans Charmes, Genevrières, Perrières, and Cailleret. We’re mentioning this because whenever a historically rich and deeply rooted producer in a big-ticket village like Meursault releases a “Bourgogne,” there’s a good chance it holds a thrilling secret. So here it is: The vast majority of the fruit comes from three single vineyards, with vines aged between 50 and 70 years, that are located in or right next to the Meursault village AOC. Vincent Boyer’s meticulous farming and winemaking are no different here than his top tier Premier Crus, so what you get is for all intents and purposes bonafide Meursault quality, minus the new oak and the triple digit price tag. White Burgundy lovers, do not miss this one!
The brother-sister team of Vincent and Sylvie Boyer are the fourth generation of the same family to head up Domaine Boyer-Martenot in the last century plus. But, lest you think them “scions” of some grand French wine dynasty, remember this is Burgundy we’re talking about: Based in Meursault and working with just 12 hectares of vineyards, Vincent and Sylvie are the kinds of hands-in-the-soil farmers that characterize Burgundy much more so than any blue-blazered aristocrat: They don’t have a lot of land, and every vintage presents new challenges to making their small family business a success.
That being said, the Boyers were pretty darn happy with the 2022 growing season. Yes, it was quite hot and relatively dry (two conditions that are not ideal for making finely etched, mineral driven Chardonnay), but the preceding winter was quite wet, there was little to no frost issues, and there was just enough spring and summer rain to keep the ripening of the grapes steady. That means that Vincent had perfectly ripe, clean, and balanced fruit to work with, and for once he had decent quantities too. That pristine fruit was gently pressed as whole clusters, then fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks before racking into neutral French oak barrels for aging. After 12 months the wine is bottled without fining or filtration, just as the top Premier Crus are treated.
In the glass, the 2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay is a deep, shimmering straw-gold with hints of green at the rim. A ripe and inviting nose of yellow apple, white peach, lime blossom, fresh cream, white flowers, and crushed stones greets you after a bit of oxygen helps the wine open up. It is medium-plus in body yet racy and mineral at the same time—a classic Meursault-like profile that is already well-articulated. Give this wine 20-30 minutes in a decanter and allow the temperature to creep up past 50 degrees to allow its full range of aromas and flavors to blossom, and be sure to lay a few bottles down to revisit in 3-5 years’ time—when it promises to be a downright explosive, opulent white wine. I love the mixture of mineral purity and unabashed luxury in this wine; this is what Meursault is all about! Pair it with a rich and satisfying seafood preparation as in the attached lobster bisque recipe. Very luxurious indeed! Enjoy!
