Sparkling wine not only has a long history in the Finger Lakes, it’s a natural fit for a cool-climate growing zone like this.

Empire Estate is a project of New York sommelier Thomas Pastuszak (NoMad Hotel, NYC), who teams up with Red Newt Cellars winemaker Kelby Russell. This is a Riesling-focused label, featuring both still and sparkling wines from the variety sourced from an assortment of select vineyards around the region. The Riesling used in this sparkler is sourced from 11 different vineyards around Seneca, Cayuga, and Keuka Lakes—the three key lakes of the region in terms of high-quality wine production. These vineyards have varying soil compositions, although shale is a common denominator: depending on the site, shale is mixed with limestone, gravel, or clay.

Crafted in the Charmat (tank) Method, the wine is assembled lot-by-lot (i.e. fruit from each vineyard is vinified on its own), with some lots fermenting in stainless steel and some in neutral oak barrels. Following the secondary fermentation, the finished wine rests in tank before bottling in the summer following the vintage. Alcohol is a modest 11.9% and residual sugar landed at eight grams/liter (right in the middle of the Brut range).

There is more textural heft to this sparkling Riesling than is typically found in a German sekt, yet there is still plenty of racy acidity giving it the appropriate amount of nerve and “cut.” Aromas and flavors of green and yellow apple, yellow peach, white flowers, crushed rocks, and a hint of rising bread dough carry through the dry, mineral finish. We tasted it alongside some grower Champagnes and it acquitted itself well!