As we enter the dead of winter in much of the Northern Hemisphere, it is worth remembering that spring is only weeks away, and there’s nothing like a pitch-perfect Provençal pink wine to transport you to warmer days ahead! But we’re not talking about some mass-produced, grocery store plonk: today’s discovery hails from a beautiful, centuries-old château where the Villeneuve Bargemon family organically farm just a few hectares of vines within a couple of miles of the French Riviera, just as they’ve done for generations. This is benchmark Côtes de Provence, and here’s a little sommelier secret for you: The very best rosés from this famous appellation (and Mesclances is easily in that category) really hit their stride after about a year in bottle. So if you are ready to add a bit of Provençal charm and romance to your February plans, now is the time to stock up!
The ancestors of Arnaud de Villeneuve Bargemon have been living and working at the château where he was born and raised since at least the 16th century, and vines have been cultivated here since the days when Roman legions built giant aqueducts to transport Alpine water down to this sun-baked countryside. Small wonder: This is some of the most beautiful, pastoral landscaping in Europe, with rocky hills rising quickly above the glittering, sapphire blue Mediterranean. It is special terroir for wine grapes, too. Those rocky hills are made up of mostly Permian blueschist, along with some shimmering quartz, which turns out to be a perfect foundation for crunchy, elegant, and necessarily thirst-quenching wines. In a word, this is where rosé was always meant to be.
Of course, just having great weather, beautiful scenery, and special terroir doesn’t magically make excellent wine all on its own. Indeed, much of the production coming out of Provence these days is meant to maximize yields (and profits) in order to send as much wine as possible, as cheaply as possible, to the rest of the world. But Mesclances does the opposite: Estate manager Alexandre Le Corguillé has been instrumental in converting all 30 hectares of vineyards to fully Certified Organic farming, in essence returning the property to the way it was before the World Wars introduced chemical additives. The vineyards are surrounded by old forests, and a variety of cover crops and other plants add to the biodiversity that helps sustain the ecosystem. The focus on balance and nature is both pleasing to the eye of any visitor, and also helps set this estate apart from the industrial-minded producers nearby.
“Cuvée Romane” is the classic, tank-fermented and aged, flagship bottling of Château les Mesclances. Serve at around 45-50 degrees in an all-purpose stem and you’ll immediately recognize the perfect, pale, sunset-pink hue that turns to even paler rosewater at the rim. Aromas of fresh strawberries, melon rind, lemon zest, orange blossom, sea breeze, celery leaves, and hints of savory, bitter herbs that are likely thanks to the inclusion of Mouvèdre in the blend, leap from the glass. The palate is bright and light, but there’s also a sneaky hint of weight and even the slightest bite of tannin, a calling card for the top tier of Provençal rosés. During warmer weather this is an ideal wine for salade Niçoise, but a more appropriate dish for this time of year would be another regional classic, Bouillabaisse. Grab a case or two and you’ll be ready for whatever the weather brings and whatever the season is!
