Poderi Colla is one of the top estates in Piedmont, with the late, great Beppe Colla being a true icon of traditional Nebbiolo winemaking. Their top vineyard in Barbaresco is called “Roncaglie” and it is considered one of the blue-chip crus here, but that vineyard has a little secret: In the heart of their parcel is a small, two hectare plot of Barbera vines that are at least 90 years old, and some are likely even older. It’s not Nebbiolo, so can’t go into the Barbaresco, so instead it is bottled as a single vineyard Barbera d’Alba that Beppe named “Costa Bruna.” It has some of the elegance and structure of its more famous sibling, but also has the fresh, juicy appeal of this grape–it’s the best of both worlds and truly astonishing hidden value. If there’s a more versatile food wine out then Barbera I’m hard pressed to name it: stock up and you’ll be ready for any meal!
Beppe Colla, who, before passing away in 2019, amassed more than 50 vintages worth of experience in Barolo and Barbaresco, is a true legacy of Piedmont wine. He was the longtime owner/winemaker at the Prunotto estate in Barolo, and a guiding force in the mapping of vineyards and for the Barolo DOCG in the 1960s. Not long after selling Prunotto to Antinori, Beppe and his younger brother, Tino, acquired several properties around Alba and consolidated them under the “Poderi Colla” umbrella. Beppe’s daughter Federica, and Tino’s son Pietro, are now at the helm. The family’s home base is in Barolo, the world famous capital of Nebbiolo in Piedmont. However they also have a parcel of vines in the Barbaresco cru of Roncaglia, which, as its name indicates, sits atop the Roncaglie cru in the town of Barbaresco. The Collas are the largest landholder in this large, southwest-facing cru, although some newer players (including Vietti) have acquired their own parcels there. The Barbera for “Costa Bruna” is found in a small parcel, nestled among the Nebbiolo vines.
As is the case with all the wines that Federica and Pietro make, farming is the key. Everything is fully organic in the vineyards, and that natural approach follows through into the cellar where the old vines, hand-harvested Barbera bunches are fully de-stemmed, gently pressed, and macerated on the skins for 10-12 days before racking into the same large, neutral oak botti that are used for the Baroli and Barbaresci wines. After full malolactic fermentation the wine is then aged for 12 months in that large oak cask before being bottled without fining or filtration. Beppe was always a “less is more” winemaker, and that philosophy is followed by Federica and Pietro as well.
Given the pedigree of the vines and the terroir they grow in, it’s best to treat this Barbera like a top tier Barbaresco. Serve it at cellar temperature in Burgundy stems after a 30-plus minute decant. Intoxicating aromas of spiced black cherries, crushed strawberries, rhubarb, orange zest, violets, lavender, and wet earth all surround a juicy palate that has a core of saline minerals and crisp acidity. Indeed, the complexity is on par with the best wines that his famous corner of northwestern Italy champions, the only difference being that Barbera is much lower in tannin than Nebbiolo, and therefore is much more approachable in its youth. Serve with your favorite pasta or pizza and the delicious simplicity will bring immense satisfaction.
