Philippe Desbos–the prodigious talent behind Domaine de Gouye–is a true-blue vigneron through and through, presiding over a rustic farmstead and vineyards so steeply pitched he must resort to using winches for plowing when his draft horse can’t make the climb. Look due east from Desbos’ driveway and there’s the hill of Hermitage, just a few miles away as the crow flies, and when you sip de Gouye’s soulful Saint-Joseph, it’s hard to fathom spending twice as much for Hermitage when this affordable gem is there for the taking. This “Vieilles Vignes” (“old vines”) bottling has appeared on SommSelect six vintages in a row, for reasons that will be obvious when you get some in your glass. This is, in no uncertain terms, a French Syrah benchmark!
Domaine de Gouye is nestled high above the Rhône River in the renowned village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. This is one of a handful of spots that elevate the supposedly “lesser” Saint-Joseph appellation to a level on par with Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. For one thing, all Saint-Joseph is not created equal: The appellation was extended to nearly 40 miles in length in 1969, causing total vineyard acreage to jump from 240 to 2,900 overnight. The variability of the region’s vineyards is significant. But, as the New York Times noted, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols is one of the original villages of the Saint-Joseph AOC, along with a handful of others clustered on the west side of the Rhône opposite Tain l’Hermitage. This is prime territory for the best expressions of Syrah, thanks to high elevations and soils that are largely granitic with patches of limestone—far superior to the clayey soils found at the base of the hills.
Desbos’ Saint-Joseph comes from a south-facing, seven-acre plot of 50-year-old vines at about 1,000 feet elevation. With the help of a plow horse (and those winches), they till the vineyard rows and follow strict sustainable practices until harvesting by hand. After grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, and foot-trod, they’re transferred to an ancient wooden block press. Indigenous yeasts trigger a whole-cluster fermentation and then the wine is rested in old, neutral French barrels for 16 months. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered, and the result is reliably stunning, especially at this price.
The wine displays a deep ruby-black hue in the glass, with hints of magenta at the rim. It is densely packed with aroma and flavor, from black raspberry, boysenberry, red and black cherry, and licorice to wild herbs, warm spices, roasted meat, cracked pepper, coffee grounds, and leather. It is medium-plus in body with loads of freshness keeping it on the bright side, and while there’s structure for 7-10 years of aging, it drinks beautifully right now, too. Decant it 30-60 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. It is rustic, dark, meaty, and therefore requires the same of any dish you pair with it. The attached recipe has become our go-to for the “Vieilles Vignes” bottling, and I know I wouldn’t mind cooking it again. Enjoy!
