Throughout our careers, we’ve consumed hundreds of bottles of dry, textural, profound Alsatian Riesling. But if we’re being truthful, we can count on one or two hands the number of times they’ve had sufficient age to allow the wine inside to really strut its stuff. So today’s an exciting one, as we get to share with you one of the rarer white wine experiences to be had–a truly stunning Alsatian Riesling with over a decade of age on it. Domaine Boeckel’s 2012 Riesling “Clos Eugénie” is likely to be one of the most singular wines we offer this year. Deeply concentrated, laden with a panoply of golden-hued fruit and mineral savor, both headspinningly serious and satisfyingly refreshing, it’s a testament to Alsace as one of the world’s most important white wine regions. The label may not say “Grand Cru,” but considering just how much complexity and grandeur is contained in this bottle of “Clos Eugénie,” perhaps it should. Best of all, a bottle is yours for less than $50. As with any decade-old wine, supplies here are extremely limited, so act fast!
Winemaking families don’t get much more deeprooted than the Boeckels. They started out as butchers by trade in 1530. But like many families back then, they also owned a few acres of vines from which they made wine, which they then sold to a negociant. In 1853, Frederic Boeckel himself became a negociant, and quickly transitioned the family away from butchery, toward viticulture and winemaking. By the end of the 19th century, the Boeckels began to bottle their production–it had previously only been sold by the barrel–and were in fact the first family in Alsace to export to other countries. Émile Boeckel took over in the 1960s and really modernized the estate, digging new cellars and perfecting the production of Cremant. His sons Thomas and Jean-Daniel now run the domaine. They’ve converted all of the farming to organics, but other than that have stuck to the old way of doing things. Like the Boeckels’ prized Grand Cru bottlings, “Clos Eugénie” still ferments and ages in massive, old oak casks. Unlike their Grand Crus, “Clos Eugénie” ages a further five years in bottle, and small tranches of special vintages are held back for later release.
Though “Clos Eugénie” doesn’t carry the Grand Cru designation, it may just be the Boeckel’s most prized plot. It carries the name of Thomas and Jean-Daniel’s great grandmother, who was a beloved matriarch of the clan. The 50-year-old Riesling vines here sit on a streak of limestone running just outside the family’s home village, Mittelbergheim. It’s a south-facing plot, where the grapes receive full daytime sun, but as night hits, brisk northerly winds blast the vines. The Boeckels get full ripeness and deep, rich fruit flavors, but also a sinuous minerality and acid structure. No doubt that structure is a huge part of why “Clos Eugénie” has aged so gracefully.
After over eleven years in bottle, the “Clos Eugenie” is tightly coiled, so feel free to pop it open 30 minutes or so before drinking. It pours a shimmering gold, still surprisingly bright for its age, with hints of silver. The nose is a wonder–a melange of lush, ripe stone fruit and savory, almost tertiary notes. Juicy apricot, yellow peach, and golden apple sit alongside honeyed nuts, straw, dried lemon peel, petrol, and pulverized chalk stoniness. The palate strikes a perfect balance between deep and resonating lusciousness and scintillating, stony structure. This is great Alsatian Riesling at the height of its powers, at a frankly unbelievable price. Don’t miss out!
