Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique were relatively early adopters of biodynamic viticulture, having been certified back in 2005, and their natural approach is reflected in the purity and pulsating energy of their wines. They plow their soils, fertilize with natural compost, plant cover crops between the rows of vines, and hand-harvest much smaller yields than their neighbors. The pristine grapes are gently pressed then fermented with only natural yeasts in open-top wooden fermenters, and when fermentation is complete, the Chambrates is racked (transferred to another vessel) and then returned to those same barrels for a year of aging before bottling.

For those of you who may have snatched up one of Vacheron’s other single-vineyard wines (like the finely chiseled “Le Paradis” bottling), Chambrates is considered the broadest, most textured wine in the bunch. It still hums with Vacheron’s trademark mineral tension, but there’s a muscularity to it that owes at least in part to the full-south exposure of the site. This is high-impact white wine that is built to age: In the glass, it’s a classic straw-yellow with hints of green at the rim, leaping from the glass and grabbing you by the lapels with scents of white grapefruit, tangerine, lemon curd, fresh ginger, chopped green herbs, crushed chalk, and a touch of warm spice. It is medium-plus in body, with a taut structure right now—but after a 30- to 45-minute decant, its layers start to unravel and a tsunami of flavor and aroma floods the senses.