To say that Michael Browne has had an outsized impact on California Pinot Noir in the 21st century would be an understatement, which is why we’re super excited to feature the 2019 CHEV. Russian River Pinot. This incredibly deep, soulful wine is the current project of Michael, who, in 1997 founded the eponymous winery Kosta Brown with Dan Kosta. That winery needs no introduction–within a decade or so it rocketed to fame, garnering countless awards and super high scores. Today it is one of the most coveted labels of Russian River Pinot Noir. CHEV., then, is like a solo album from the lead singer of a famous band (an apt comparison, since Michael is a huge music fan).
Browne Family Wines is the new(ish) venture for Michael Browne, one of the co-founders of the iconic Kosta Browne winery, and his wife Sarah. After Michael sold Kosta Browne, he and his wife purchased a small property a couple miles southeast of the Russian River, and it is here that they produce two labels: Cirq and CHEV. It fulfills their lifelong dream of owning a small, family winery. The focus is on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sourced from their own vineyards as well as those of neighbors and friends near and far. The philosophy is to create elegant, balanced wines that offer both immediate pleasure and long term aging potential, and that honor the family legacy of hands-on craftsmanship and the love of turning found objects (or meticulously farmed grapes) into works of beauty and art.
To achieve this marriage of natural beauty and artisanal winemaking, the 2019 CHEV. was made from hand-harvested Pinot Noir from several prime parcels in the Russian River Valley–Koplen, Klopp Laguna, Graham, Home Ranch, Giudici and their own estate vineyard. The vines are planted on a mix of classic Goldridge soils and clay, providing both elegance (Goldridge) and power (clay). After harvest, the perfectly ripe bunches are mostly de-stemmed (95%) and fermented in open top stainless steel and concrete tanks. After a cool, slow fermentation the juice is racked into French oak barrels (44% new) and concrete tanks for 12 months before bottling with a light filtration. Their approach is clean and modern, with a gentle touch that allows the richness of Russian River Pinot to shine through.
Serve the 2019 CHEV. Russian River Pinot at a cool cellar temperature (around 60 degrees) in a nice, large Burgundy bowl. Do so after a brief decant and you’ll be treated to a wave of sweet, spiced red cherries, boysenberry, violets, dried herbs, cocoa powder, and a hint of vanilla bean. The medium-full body has a super luxurious texture, smooth and suave, and just the right amount of grip on the long, mineral flecked finish. At five years of age it is in peak drinking form, but it will age gracefully for another five years or more. It would make a lovely pairing for anything mesquite smoked, like salmon or tri-tip or duck breast. This is a bottle that is rarely seen outside of the exclusive Browne Family mailing list, so don’t hesitate to grab some before our meager allocation is gone!
