Longtime SommSelect Faithful have heard this rant many times before: most of the wine-loving public is asleep at the wheel when it comes to the dry reds (and whites!) of Portugal’s Douro Valley. The Douro’s signature fortified wine, Port, still retains its place among the great wines of the world, but the real story right now is the ever-increasing quality, availability, and diversity of dry, unfortified table wines. Modernization of winemaking facilities and a major generational shift in winemaking talent is happening throughout Portugal, but perhaps most profoundly in the Douro—one of the world’s most historic wine appellations and one of the most dramatic terroirs to experience firsthand. Haven’t been yet? It needs to be on your list!

Where It Grows:

Portugal’s Douro River Valley, a UNESCO Heritage Site and one of the first officially “delimited” wine zones in the world, has undergone a radical transformation. It is a cavernous valley, spanning the entire width of the country and emptying into the Atlantic at Oporto, the coastal city that gave the region’s most famous export—Port—its name. It is a hot, arid climate, with terraced vines rooted in crumbly schist: an ideal setting for powerful dry reds from hardy local varieties such as Touriga Nacional.

How It's Made:

This lush red is driven by Touriga Nacional (60%) and Touriga Franca (40%) fermented on native yeasts in stainless steel. Maceration on skins lasts just five days and yet, characteristic of wines from this area, that was plenty of time to extract lots of color, tannin, and flavor. The wine was aged for 18 months in a mix of new (30%) and used (70%) French oak barriques, lending some polish to an otherwise earthy, mineral-rich red.

What It Tastes Like:

An opaque, inky, ruby-black hue in the glass, with black fruits leaping out of the gate once poured: black raspberry, cassis, currants, plum. Then, more savory elements emerge: graphite, dusty earth, wild herbs, leather, violets, tobacco. It is full-bodied, but not overwhelmingly so, with firm tannins and a long, violet-scented finish. Reminiscent of Left Bank Bordeaux, but with a wild side—a pleasing touch of earthy rusticity that begs to be tamed by a rich braised lamb shank or short ribs.