A week ago we featured a stunning Pinot Grigio from the Friulian hills, where they make a distinctly delicious version of this global variety. But, if you want to dive deep into the local, and ancient, wine culture in this far northeastern corner of Italy, then Ribolla Gialla is the way to go. With very few exceptions this grape is only found here, and across the border in Slovenia. Today’s lovely, perfumed beauty from Canus is the perfect introduction to the splendors of Ribolla. It doesn’t go the route (now fashionable) of heavy skin contact, orange wine style. Instead this is lithe, elegant, and crispy, with just subtle hints of the floral aromas, orange zest, and stone fruits that are calling cards for the variety. It’s a breath of Alpine foothills fresh air, and its price is just as refreshing. This is a perfect wine for the summer to fall transition, so grab a bunch before it’s gone!
The rolling hills that sit at the base of the Julian Pre-Alps, in what is now northeastern Italy and western Slovenia, have been planted to grapes since Roman times, and likely even earlier. This spectacular landscape is the product of millions of years of Alpine tectonics and geomorphology, which has resulted in a mineral rich subsoil that is known locally as Ponca. That soil, along with the influence of the mountains to the north and the Adriatic to the south, creates an ideal condition for growing top notch wine grapes. The Romans knew this, and from their plantings and the continuous viticulture over the centuries comes the autochthonous variety Ribolla Gialla. “Native” grapes are those that were introduced to new viticultural areas many centuries ago and have adapted to their homes through clonal evolution. “Autochthonous” grapes were literally created, or born, in their native region.
The Colli Orientali is the easternmost subregion of Friuli, in some places it is a literal stone's throw to the Slovenian border. Here the ancient, Romanesque terraced vineyards are in good supply, and it is in the village of Gramogliano that Otto Casonato purchased an old winery about three decades ago. Since then he and his team have lovingly restored the property while maintaining the treasure trove of vines. Today Canus is among the most acclaimed wineries in this unofficial “cru” of Colli Orientali, and their gorgeous winery and tasting room have also received numerous accolades from architectural reviews.
The Ribolla Gialla is sourced from a single vineyard that was planted via massal selection to an ancient clone of the variety that is specific to the Gramogliano cru, back in 1991. The grapes are all hand harvested and then immediately put into a gentle press before a temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Famous Friulian neighbors such as Gravner and Radikon are well known for their high skin-contact Ribollas, allowing them to ferment with whole clusters for many weeks. This style likely has ancient roots, but the clean, fresh version that we have today from Canus is the perfect way to experience the unencumbered brilliance of this special terroir with the very grape that was born of it.
The 2021 Ribolla Gialla from Canus pours a shimmering straw yellow with slight hints of lime green at the rim. This variety is known to age well, given its medium weight and medium-high acidity levels, and at three years of age this beauty is in its perfect drinking window. Serve at around 50 degrees in all-purpose stems and the classic notes of just-ripe peaches, yellow apples, orange blossoms, bergamot, wildflower honey, Alpine herbs, and wet stone will all leap from the glass. The texture is lovely, medium bodied and silky, with a lively pop of acidity and high altitude minerality. It’s a lovely pairing for seafood dishes on the richer side like brandade or lobster risotto, but if you want to go for local authenticity try the below recipe for a Friulian pork ragù with pasta. Buono appetito!
