Cantina di Montalcino operates from what looks like a modernist fortress, but inside it’s a bastion of tradition.

Since 1970, this cooperative has assembled Sangiovese from 90 hectares from every corner of the appellation: from 350 feet in the warmer valleys to 2,000 feet in the cooler heights. Each of the 40 growers tends less than 5 acres on average: backyard vines and small parcels that receive doting attention.

September 2019 delivered the kind of conditions winemakers love: moderate temperatures, massive diurnal swings, ZERO heat spikes. The grapes arrived with incredible color, gorgeous phenolic ripeness, and the acid structure to age for decades.

After 30 months in 5,500-liter Slavonian oak casks—aging the traditional way—you get Brunello that represents the entire appellation in one bottle. The cool breed from hills like Montosoli in the north, luscious power from the warmer south. The winery itself calls 2019 their finest vintage since the legendary 2016, maybe better.

Why You'll Love It

• The utility player that does everything: Like a baseball star who hits .355, steals bases, and turns double-plays, this Brunello delivers immediate pleasure while packing 10-15 years of aging potential. Black cherry liqueur, pressed roses, dried orange peel, and the smells of the macchia (Tuscan garrigue): all the makings of classic Brunello di Montalcino for the price of many producers’ Rosso di Montalcinos.
  

• A score that embarrasses much more expensive wines: 94 points from Suckling puts it in the same league as Canalicchio di Sopra, Ciacci Piccolomini, and several $100+ Riservas. At $39 on 6+ it's the rare fine wine that qualifies as both a weeknight go-to AND a special occasion wine to age.

How to Serve It

• Decant for 60 minutes to aerate.
  

• Serve at 60°F in Bordeaux or Sangiovese stems.
  

• Drink now through 2040.
  

• Match with rosemary and fennel-pollen encrusted roast porchetta, or rabbit ragù over pappardelle.