If this morning’s “baby” Barolo got you thinking about the real deal, we have just the thing–there are traditionalist estates in the now world-famous commune of Barolo, and then there is Francesco Rinaldi. If there were an award for upholding tradition, Rinaldi would win hands down. They’ve changed almost nothing in their 150 year history, though by standing still on a moving planet they have once again come into the limelight. With increasingly warm and dry summers, the staunch classicism of Rinaldi is producing supremely balanced, elegant wines. 2017 is exhibit A: The hotter, shorter growing season led to a wine that at just six years of age is already fascinating, captivating, and sensuously fun to drink. Of course it will age like a classic Barolo too, but the opportunity to get all the goods—sweet cherries, dusty earth, crushed roses, and much more—up front is very hard to pass up.
For 150 years the iconic address of Francesco Rinaldi, in the heart of the eponymous village, has produced wines that are snapshots of terroir and history. Really, the only thing that has changed here is the addition of a basket press to replace foot trodding, and some electricity for lighting. Indeed, even who is at the helm has barely budged as Luciano Rinaldi has had that position since 1941! The spry nonagenarian is now supported by his nieces Paola and Piera, and they will likely be joined by the next generation soon enough.
The Rinaldi holdings are capped by two of Barolo’s top crus, Cannubi and Brunate. Long before it became the fashion and focus of many of the region’s top estates, they were bottling these crus separately and of course continue to do so today. Cannubi, our focus for today’s bonus discovery, is one of the most famous crus in Barolo, and most of this wine is sourced from the special Boschis parcel. Sandy, white clay soils, with streaks of limestone, are high in silica, producing wines that are powerful and loaded with complex minerality.
While a seven year old Barolo is usually considered young, this beauty is ready to enjoy right out the gate. That is because 2017 was a very warm, dry vintage–as is becoming more and more common in Piedmont-however, there were less major heat spikes, slightly cooler evenings, and some serendipitous rain in September that gave a bit of extra hang time to an otherwise short growing season. As always the fruit was fermented in steel tanks for 25-30 days, then racked into huge, 50 hectoliter oak casks to age for three years plus before bottling and aging another six months before release.
As advertised this seven year old beauty is ready to rock with just a brief 30-45 minute decant. Serve cool, in a large Burgundy stem, and the vibrant, ruby red color with only the slightest hint of brick orange at the rim will usher you into a full spectrum of spiced cherries, crushed raspberries, dried roses, wild herbs, porcini, tar, and hints of orange zest. A super classic Barolo deserves a super classic pairing, so go for some osso buco over a bed of risotto. There’s really nothing more comforting than a hearty meal and a perfectly paired bottle of wine during the cold months.
