In Champagne, where grandes marques often chase volume and consistency, Bollinger remains the magnificent, recalcitrant loner. This is a house that hand-riddles EVERY vintage bottle, ferments in ancient oak barrels maintained by their last remaining cooper, and stores reserve wines in magnums that must be opened by hand—a month-long process that surely infuriates their bankers. Tasting the wines makes it clear though: some things can't be rushed or mechanized.

The "PN TX20" represents Bollinger's new exploration of single-village terroirs. Built on 75% 2020 Pinot Noir from Tauxières (a 99%-rated Premier Cru that Richard Juhlin calls perfect for Bollinger's style), with 25% reserve wines including those aged in their famous magnum library. Tauxières sits in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, producing Pinot with exceptional power and structure. The 2020 vintage was marked by an incredibly short growing season—just 87 days from flowering to harvest—concentrating flavors and creating what Galloni calls a "decidedly virile Champagne."