The Rovellotti story begins in the 1400s, when the family first settled in Ghemme. That's 600 years and counting—twenty generations by their estimate, though only eleven are officially documented. Today, Antonello Rovellotti operates from a 12th-century castle in the village center, the only winemaker still permitted within its ancient walls. His cellar is a medieval wonderland of ladders, trap doors, and hidden chambers where time moves differently.
Ghemme sits in Alto Piemonte, northwestern Piedmont's forgotten corner where the Alps loom large. Just 30 miles from Switzerland's Matterhorn, this is Nebbiolo's northernmost frontier. If Barolo and Barbaresco are about rolling hills and morning fog, Ghemme is about mountains and extremes—massive temperature swings between scorching days and frigid nights, a growing season that stretches into November, acidic soils that give the wines an electric charge.
The Costa del Salmino vineyard represents Rovellotti's crown jewel. These half-century-old vines—90% Nebbiolo, 10% indigenous Vespolina—grow in uniquely acidic soils that force the roots deep. The altitude and proximity to the Alps create conditions that push Nebbiolo to its limits, concentrating flavors while preserving freshness in ways warmer sites can't match.
What sets Rovellotti apart is patience, bordering on the monastic. While cash-strapped modern producers turn and burn their new releases, the Costa del Salmino Riserva ages 42 months in massive Swiss oak casks, then additional time in bottle: Six years total before release.
The 2016 vintage showcases everything special about great Ghemme—the power of Barolo with an Alpine freshness, complexity that rivals Burgundy, and a longevity that challenges any red wine on earth.
WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT
The Castle: Made in a 12th-century castle by the only producer allowed to work within its walls. It is medieval history from 20 generations of the same family.
Barolo Quality, Half the Price: This drinks like $150 Barolo but costs $66. Same grape, similar complexity, arguably more interesting terroir—just without the famous DOCG and higher price.
Six Years of Patience: While others release wine after two years, Rovellotti waits six. That's 42 months in massive casks plus bottle age. You're drinking wine that's already perfectly integrated.
300 Cases Maximum: In years when they don't make it at all (most years), you understand how special declared vintages are.
HOW TO SERVE IT
Decant 45-60 minutes—this needs air to show its full complexity. Serve at 58-62°F in Burgundy bowls.
Drink now through 2046, as you would age the biggest names in Barolo or Barbaresco.
Perfect with truffle risotto, aged cheeses, or bollito misto. The Alpine character also makes it spot-on with game like rabbit and duck.
