We would like to think that one of our specialties at SommSelect is finding some outrageous deals for the very best in cutting edge Oregon Pinots, but nothing we offer hits quite as perfectly as Haden Fig. Erin Nuccio, the one man band at Haden Fig, is one of our hands down favorite winemakers working in Oregon, and really anywhere in the U.S. Each new release from Nuccio further strengthens (1) the superiority of this increasingly legendary terroir and (2) our claim that these Pinots are impossible-to-beat values. Erin combines the distinct and delicious nuances of Willamette terroir with an old-school, dare we say old-world, approach that emphasizes balance and structure over gobs of jammy fruit. But there’s still plenty of silky, Oregon Pinot fruit too, and somehow it manages to clock in at far less than most of Erin’s neighbors. This is one of the best Pinot Noir values on the planet, stock up!
Oregon’s Willamette Valley, just southwest of Portland, is a large, sprawling AVA with numerous soil types, elevations, and micro-climates. The trick here is sourcing excellent fruit from top vineyards and then blending them to create a world-class Pinot value. Erin is up to the challenge, using a blend of Cancilla, Croft, and Björnson vineyards, with a touch of the famous Freedom Hill in there as well. Some sites proved more tannin, others acidity, and others the silky, red fruit that the region is known for.
In case you haven’t heard the background to this winemaking story, here it is: Erin got his start in wine at a retail store in Washington, D.C., then worked in distribution in Boston before following the siren call of the West Coast. He went to enology school in California while also working in vineyards, but he knew his ultimate destination would be Oregon’s Willamette Valley. He found work with Russ Raney at Oregon’s Evesham Wood (where he remains the winemaker) and simultaneously cultivated a network of vineyard sources with which to launch Haden Fig.
With a couple of decades of experience now under his belt, Erin has the farming and winemaking down to a scientific art, or an artistic science. The hand-harvested, organically grown fruit from the vineyards above is shuttled to the Evesham Wood winery (where he makes his wines as well). Here, the grapes undergo a native-yeast fermentation with twice-daily “punch downs.” After approximately three weeks, the newborn wine matures in French barrels, 10% new, for 16 months. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered and then rested for several months before being recently released.
Within moments of splashing into the glass, the 2023 shows high-toned notes of wild strawberry, raspberry, cranberry, rose petal, wet stone, Bing cherry, crushed earth, damp moss, loose tea, and judicious hints of oak spice. The palate is beautifully elegant with crunchy, savory textures that serve to broaden each sip. As the wine opens up in a decanter, a vibrant core packed to the brim with forest fruit is further enhanced by a soft crushed-mineral component. It’s got so much charm that the seriousness of its structure sneaks up on you, but there’s no doubt that this wine will continue to improve in your cellar. Enjoy now and over the next five to ten years in your largest Burgundy stems.
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017596-five-spice-duck-breast-with-blackberries
