With a mountainous backdrop forming a natural amphitheater, quaint hilltop villages, and the glistening sea always on the horizon, Provence is among Europe’s most breathtaking regions. It’s also the perfect place to grow Mourvèdre, a grape that can produce complex, yet refreshing rosé–perfect for the resorts of Saint-Tropez and Cannes–or deep, sultry, powerful yet elegant reds who can age seemingly forever. And though it is the former that now enjoys global popularity, it is the red wines that date back to pre-Roman times and that have been at the heart of Provençal culture for millennia. Indeed, this lovely “baby Bandol” could very well be a window deep into the past of western civilization, but even if not it’s downright delicious. Oh, and the price hearkens to past times and less expensive wines too!
Bandol is a quaint seaside town in Provence, a few miles southeast of Marseille and to the west of the famous resort towns of the Côte d’Azure. The ancient vineyards here are planted on steep hills of limestone and clay that rise above the beaches, and are therefore heavily influenced by the Mediterranean. Mourvèdre has long been the dominant grape as it seems perfectly suited to the hot, dry summer days and cool, windy nights. It ripens very slowly and so harvests are relatively late–especially compared to the other varieties grown here. And though it is now most famous for rosés that fit the Provençal seaside aesthetic, it is the long-lived reds that have captured hearts for centuries, likely dating back some 3000 years or more–long before the Romans arrived and named the area “Provencia Romana!”
Château Vannières, which was first built in 1547 and is nestled in picturesque hills above the village of Bandol, was purchased by Gaston Boisseaux in 1957 and today his son Eric, and grandson Charles-Eric, are at the helm. The Boisseaux clan are actually Burgundians, and they bring a sense of devotion to terroir transparency to the beautifully rugged landscape of Bandol. Indeed the soils here are very similar to the famous vineyards of Burgundy, with a high percentage of limestone mixed with clay marls. The difference of course is in the grapes, but over decades these former Burgundians have grown to love and appreciate the secret powers of Mourvèdre.
The IGP of Mont Caume is a small geographical area that surrounds Bandol. The Boisseaux team uses a portion of declassified Bandol fruit, generally from younger vines, as well as a few vines that are outside the AOC to craft this younger drinking, fresher “baby Bandol.” Fermentation and aging is exclusively in concrete and steel tanks, and there’s a higher percentage of Grenache (35%) than their Bandol. But there’s no holding back the deep, spicy, brooding personality of Mourvèdre . . . it shines right through!
Serve at cellar temperature in large Bordeaux stems and you’ll get a rush of spice and fruit–blackberries, red currants, kirsch, dried thyme, lavender, cracked pepper, smoked paprika–that is followed by savory undercurrents of pencil lead, leather, and rare meat. Mourvèdre is a famously tannic variety, but here those tannins are kept in check by gentle winemaking and the silky, low tanning addition of Grenache. That said, this gem has plenty of stuffing to age gracefully for several years. Serve with a classic Provençal stew, or during warmer weather it’s damn near perfect for a grilled skirt steak or cheeseburger!
