Yesterday I teased the name of Nuno Mira do Ó as the consulting winemaker working alongside Joana Santiago for their top tier Vinhos Verdes project. Today we get to dive directly into the world of Nuno, vis a vis his outrageously elegant, deeply complex, study in terroir transparency that he calls “Doravante.” Sourced from a single parcel of old vines where Baga and Touriga Nacional grapes are co-planted, this is a tiny production testament to the potential for greatness that exists along the Portuguese coast in the region of Bairrada. And I do mean “tiny”–less than 300 cases were made and only a precious few of those arrived on these shores. Given the pedigree and talent behind these rare bottles, the price is almost unbelievable; but that is why we love Portugal: World-class wines that punch way, way above their weight!
Mira do Ó and V. Puro are the two front-facing labels of a passion project that is devoted to showcasing the unique terroir of Bairrada and Dão. The man, or perhaps “wizard” is more appropriate, behind those labels is Nuno Mira do Ó. With his prodigious talents and pioneering spirit you might expect to encounter a brash, bigger-than-life personality, but in fact nothing could be further from the truth. He is a quiet, humble, and thoughtful individual who has a zen-like approach to winemaking and farming–always seeking balance and seamless integration with nature. He’s essentially a Portuguese wine Jedi.
This approach or philosophy is ideally suited to the wines of Bairrada, which have very recently become darlings of the geeky sommelier crowd due mostly to the special characteristics of the region's most important grape: Baga. With small berries, tightly clustered bunches, and very thick skins this grape produces aromatic, tannic wines whose power can be surprising given the relatively light color–akin to Nebbiolo or Nerello Mascalese. The single vineyard that is the source of “Doravante” is a very rare example of Baga being co-planted, and completely mixed in with Touriga Nacional vines. This grape is a star in the Douro, and lends a bit of darker fruit and also helps to soften the Baga so you don’t need to wait years and years for it to be ready. That said, at five years old this wine is still deliciously youthful.
Nuno farms all his vines without any chemicals, nothing is certified but you can think of the philosophy as organic plus. His work in the cellar is similarly natural and non-interventionist, the goal is always to showcase the limestone geology and coastal climate of Bairrada. After harvest, both the Touriga and the Baga are fermented together (with about 40% whole clusters) in a large wooden vat. There are no pumpovers, just gentle extraction, and the finished wine is aged in the same vat for 12 months. Serve this powerful yet harmonious red in a large Burgundy stem for maximum aromatic expression. Tart cherries, blackberries, red plums, and a hint of wild blueberries kick off the attack, and then the savory notes of leather, sage, dried roses, thyme, and damp earth open up and are followed by a long, firm and mineral flecked finish. Any grilled or roasted meat or vegetables would be a great pairing, the more smokey the better. Check out why the wine world is so excited by the potential of Baga and Bairrada!
