I’ve said it before, but I can’t help saying it again: it’s becoming more and more difficult to find Red Burgundy that really over performs for the money. So when I do I can’t help but want to share it with as many people as possible! That is exactly how I feel about this deep, silky bottle of Pinot Noir that showcases the more powerful, dark-fruited side of Burgundy–the side that you generally only find in much pricier bottles of Premier and Grand Cru. Made by the historic Domaine Gille, and sourced from a single parcel outside Nuits-Saint-Georges, it’s a wine that’s guaranteed to bring oodles of smiles to both casual Pinot fans, and serious Burgundy lovers alike. If you think that great Red Burgundy is always a splurge, this bottle will have you thinking twice, and then wishing you had more!
The small, nine hectare estate of Domaine Gille traces its history back to 1570, giving them over 500 years of experience, tradition, and history in the town of Comblanchien. In the early 20th century Vivant Gille consolidated the family holdings and upgraded the winery and cellar. Today it is his grandson, Pierre, at the helm, farming and making wine much as his ancestors have always done. He is passionate about terroir, and like all great vigneron he believes that 90% of the work in making wine is done in the vineyards–pristine fruit equals profound wine.
The domaine is located in Comblanchien, a small hamlet that is just outside of Nuits-Saint-Georges and the gateway to the Route des Grand Crus–home to the most rare, sought-after, and pricey Pinot Noir on the planet. The Cistern monks have been mapping out the soils and plots down to the minutia here for over a thousand years, and as such it is like catnap for terroir lovers. The fruit for this “humble” Bourgogne is sourced from a small parcel of old vines that sits just outside the Nuits appellation proper, almost at the dividing line between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. This borderland location is the prime reason for the exceptional value that is contained in this bottle.
Pierre Gille is a true classicist in the cellar, again his philosophy is that hard work in the vines makes the cellar work easy. Once they have reached ideal ripeness, the hand harvested grapes undergo a short, cold maceration before fermentation with native yeasts begins. The wine is then moved to standard 225l French oak barriques (about 1/3rd of which is new) for 15 months of aging before bottling. The goal is always to respect the terroir and the nuances that each different vintage brings.
Despite its location in that “no man’s land” between the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, this little parcel delivers depth, complexity and power that is more reminiscent of the famous crus just to the north. In the glass it shows a deep garnet red, with just a hint of pink at the rim. I would definitely recommend a decant of 30 plus minutes to allow oxygen to awaken the full spectrum of classic Burgundian charm. Rich, red and black fruits–Morello cherry, blackberry, red currant–mingle with savory notes of rose petal, violet, mint, star anise, cocoa powder, and damp earth. Serve in a large Burgundy bowl, at around 60 degrees, with a heaping bowl of Boeuf Bourguignon for a truly classic Burgundian experience.
