If I’m forced to choose a village along the slopes of the famous Côte d’Or that has the potential to produce the most pure, textbook expression of Pinot Noir in all its glory, I would say Volnay nine out of 10 times. There’s just something about the shimmering, ruby red hue and the layers of sappy fruit, dried flowers, and earth that screams “Pinot Noir'' in all its resplendent glory. Today’s discovery, from a talented winemaker who has been flying under the radar (for now), is another emphatic argument in favor of Volnay’s victorious ascension to the top of Burgundy villages hierarchy. Procured from a few very small parcels of organically tended vines, the Domaine Laboureau Volnay is not just a micro-level production wine, it is virtually unavailable outside of France. That’s another reason that we’re super excited to introduce you to this exciting new estate that is in every sense of the word a fantastic “discovery.” So, if supremely elegant, deliciously classic Red Burgundy is on your list this holiday season, then you should not delay in grabbing some of these exclusive to SommSelect, debut bottles of Pinot perfection.

Mathieu Laboureau is an 11th-generation grape grower and winemaker in the Côte de Beaune. The estate is located in Monthélie, but Mathieu and his family farm 15 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in some of the most prestigious appellations including Meursault, Pommard, and Corton-Charlemagne. Their small parcel in the village of Volnay is nearest and dearest to his heart. “I have a weakness for the Volnay plot” Mathieu states proudly on the homepage of the domaine’s website, and after tasting this silky, aromatically profound beauty, I can understand why he loves these particular vines so much. 

With such a long history of winemaking, it’s probably not surprising that drastic changes at Domaine Laboureau are pretty rare. However, one thing that Mathieu has taken up passionately is the conversion of all the estate’s vineyards to organic viticulture. He began this project several years ago when he first took the helm, and as of this year they are fully certified as organic. Adding pristine fruit from healthy but naturally low-yielding vines to the centuries of traditional winemaking know-how in the cellar has helped catapult the wines at Laboureau from solid to excellent, and with Mathieu’s talents only increasing with every additional harvest the future at this estate looks very bright indeed.

So, you might ask, why are these wines almost unheard of here in the U.S.? The domaine has always sold the bulk of its production to the local French market, and indeed they still sell quite a bit directly to private clients. But a few years ago, a friend of Mathieu’s moved to California and started a small French wine import business, and voilá: Laboureau has entered the market! We expect to see these wines more often in the future, but for now you can get in on the ground floor with this Volnay gem. After a 30 minute decant serve at around 60 degrees in a nice Burgundy stem and enjoy the pure, Pinot from hallowed terroir pleasure: sweet cherries, red currants, fresh raspberries, rose petals, violets, allspice, mint, and just the right amount of earthy sauvage are all present on the nose, and the texture is silky smooth, with not-too-firm tannins framing the wine and a long, mineral laden finish. Perfect for classic preparations of duck or other game foul, it’s also excellent with wild salmon or steelhead trout, or any mushroom focused dishes. In other words, this is both the perfect show stopping Pinot and perfect old-school Red Burgundy for all your holiday needs!