Sébastien Dauvissat’s family has been farming the same small collection of parcels near the hamlet of Chichée since 1899. Following the unfortunate death of his father, Jean, this property has essentially been a one-man show that produces a limited number of cases beneath Sébastien’s 17th-century house. As with all top sites in Chablis, Kimmeridgian limestone is the dominant soil type beneath this family’s vines, and especially the revered vineyard that produces the estate’s top bottling—Grand Cru “Les Preuses.” 

“Les Preuses” is one of the smallest Grand Crus in Chablis and Sébastien’s holdings are a mere fraction of a hectare. This timeless vineyard is located adjacent to neighboring Grand Crus “Bougros” and “Vaudésir.” Grand Cru “Les Preuses” is higher and more exposed than both, perched atop a high slope, gazing down on the right bank of the Serein river that twists through the village of Chablis. This is one of the highest and most sun-kissed vineyards in Chablis, and of all of the village’s Grand Crus, it is generally recognized for producing the most open and expressive wines. After grapes are harvested, juice for this cuvée is pressed directly into used French barrels for fermentation (both alcoholic and malolactic) and is then subsequently aged for one year. Afterwards, the wine is transferred into stainless steel for yet another year of aging before bottling and release. 

Dauvissat’s 2018 Chablis Grand Cru “Les Preuses” displays a deep straw-yellow core with green and gold reflections moving out to the rim. The mesmerizing nose encapsulates what Grand Cru Chablis achieves at its pinnacle, offering up notes of Meyer lemon, yellow apples, honeysuckle, lees, lime blossoms, white peach, salt-preserved lemon, button mushroom, preserved pineapple, dried white flowers, chalk, and crushed oyster shells. That’s not an exhaustive list, either—Sébastien’s are chameleonic wines that continue evolving in dramatic fashion as hours pass by. The full-bodied palate is dense and viscous with flavors which recall the nose, but with an extra dose of brilliant energy and exoticism to the fruit. As is often the case with Chablis’ top “Les Preuses” bottlings, it’s hard to keep count of the many layers of expertly melded minerals, fruits, and earthy savor. This is a memorably complex and textured wine, truly as good as Chablis gets, and a force to be reckoned with should it find its way into a lineup with that “other” Dauvissat. I recommend decanting at least 60 minutes before serving in a large Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees (I prefer the warmer side so its complex personality can emerge). Great Chablis is an obvious soulmate with oysters, but Sébastien Dauvissat’s ‘18 deserves a richer companion—turbot with a white wine-butter sauce has the richness and freshness to complement each voluptuous layer this Grand Cru Chablis offers. Best of all? This bottle is ready to stun you today, though it will keep producing at a top level over the next 10+ years—what else would you expect from top-tier Burgundy?