Ok, you’ve probably heard about the continuously rising prices of Burgundy, and you’ve probably heard it from us on numerous occasions! Puligny-Montrachet is arguably the most lauded and rarefied village for white Burgundy, and Chardonnay generally, on the planet, so price increases there have been particularly steep. That said, I, and I think many of you, still want to enjoy those special bottles without breaking the bank. The answer? Domaine de Montille’s “Le Clos du Château.” It’s a single vineyard, farmed biodynamically, that surrounds the eponymous estate in the heart of Puligny. This vineyard has always been classified as simple “Bourgogne,” so the price for what is essentially top tier Puligny-Montrachet is downright cheap. We have very, very little–it will be gone in a flash!
Étienne de Montille is pretty much Burgundian royalty: his family tree includes 17th century Volnay lords. Étienne’s late father, Hubert, earned a name for his family domaine by crafting whites happy to sit almost as long in the cellar as the reds. Then it was Étienne’s turn. After stretches in law and a brief year bartending at Chez Panisse in California, Étienne realized where his heart lay. He returned home and apprenticed under his exacting father. In addition to overseeing operations at the family domaine, which he took over in 1990, he and his sister, Alix, created a well-known négociant business. In 2012, he purchased the historic Château de Puligny-Montrachet, which he had run since 2001. He revived the château’s fortunes largely by focusing on the health and sustainability of its vineyards—not only converting them to organic/biodynamic farming but reducing overall wine production by 20 percent to focus on a smaller number of bottlings. Today all of the Montille wines, including those of Château de Puligny-Montrachet, are under the Domaine de Montille label.
“Le Clos du Château” is a large, single vineyard of about 4.9 hectares that lies at the foot of the Château. Because the AOC boundaries, drawn about 100 years ago, begin at the back of the Château du Puligny-Montrachet, this vineyard has always been designated as generic “Bourgogne Blanc.” But it is anything but generic. The soils do have a deeper topsoil of silt and clay over the limestone, which is why this vineyard was not historically given cru status, however that simply adds to the forward, supple styling of the wine. Essentially it means you can drink it young! That said there is no mistaking its Puligny nature and quality, and as such Etienne and his team give it the full cru treatment: Fermentation takes place in 600 and 228 liter Allier barrels, mostly used, with native yeasts, and is then aged for up to a year in the same barrels before racking into steel tanks to settle for another six months. That is how they make the Premier Crus, and that is how they make “Le Clos du Château.”
Like many great white Burgundies in their youth, this wine starts shy, but becomes the life of the party with oxygen. I recommend a 30-60 minute decant while maintaining a steady 50-55 degree drinking temperature. Pull out your large Burgundy stems for this one: The 2022 “Clos du Château” displays a brilliant straw-yellow core with soft silvery reflections. On the nose are notes of raw hazelnut, yellow apple skin, white peach, lemon cream, lime blossoms, oyster shell, white pear, honeysuckle, and the faintest touch of baking spice. Bright acidity soars from the start, only elevating the intense crushed rock minerality and superb freshness on the finish. It’s layered, certainly, but the mineral verve and piquant flavors take center stage. It’s not a well-endowed Montrachet, nor is it a steely Chablis. There is noticeable weight and structure, with electric layers that mirror serious Puligny-Montrachet. Consequently, I see this lasting 10 years or more if stored properly, with its best years coming after 2026. When opening, just remember the above service notes and pair it with the following lemon-butter halibut recipe. A double-digit dining experience that feels like triple? You can’t go wrong. Cheers.
