Searching high and low for aged Bordeaux values has been a top priority of SommSelect since day one–you could say it’s part of our core mission. I’d like to think we’ve done a pretty good job of that over the years, but today’s discovery has to rank among the most incredible values we’ve been able to source. Elegant, deeply complex, perfectly balanced Bordeaux that is delightfully old-school in both its profile and its price (and by “old-school” pricing we’re talking something that you would see 30 years ago). And the real shocker: this isn’t a mass-produced, corporate owned label; it’s a super tiny, one hectare estate that has a single owner/vigneron/winemaker who works organically and biodynamically in the vines. That’s right, this is an artisanal, handmade wine from exceptional terroir, with over eight years of age, from a highly lauded vintage in Bordeaux, for less than $30. Buy this by the case, or really by the cases!
In a region where wine production is generally measured in the tens of thousands of bottles, Château la Hase is a good candidate for the Webster’s definition of “quaint.” This miniscule property has exactly one hectare of 45 year old Merlot vines. It sits at the edge of the Fronsac appellation, near the Dordogne river and a few miles to the southwest of the Gironde estuary–squarely Right Bank territory, hence the Merlot. Jean-Yves Millaire is the owner-operator and, for most of the year, a one man team in both the vineyard and cellar. He considers himself a “terroir winemaker,” working naturally in the cellar and using organic and biodynamic practices in the vines in order to coax the most transparent “soil to glass” transfer possible. He has begun to use clay amphora for fermentation via native yeasts, and aging is done entirely in neutral French oak barriques. Jean-Yves named the estate “La Hase” in honor of his grandfather, who used to take him hunting for wild hare (hase in French).
The Fronsac region is known for its steep hills and its forests, which help to make it especially picturesque but also provide ideal conditions for growing grapes. Indeed, vineyards and winemaking have existed here since Roman times–much longer than the gilded Châteaux on the other side of the river. The soil is also distinct, dominated by sandstone and limestone instead of clay and gravel, which is especially useful in the increasingly hot, dry summers. The steeper slopes and well drained subsoils lend freshness to otherwise sturdy, often slightly rustic wines. This terroir plays perfectly with Jean-Yves old-school, minimalist approach to winemaking, and it adds an extra layer of elegance, complexity, and lift to wine that, on paper, looks to be more simple–especially considering the price!
With a solid eight plus years of age the 2016 la Hase is hitting its perfect drinking window right now, and is generally ready to rock right after pulling the cork, though a quick splash decant wouldn’t hurt. Served at cellar temperature in a Bordeaux stem, the wine shows a vibrant garnet with a violet core and just a hint of orange at the rim. The nose is pure, pedigreed, Right Bank brilliance with up front notes of ripe plum, cherry liqueur, and red currant followed by more savory hints of dried sage, mint, dark chocolate, spice box, and damp earth. The tannins are perfectly sweet and soft, but still present, and the surprisingly bright acidity lifts the wine into a long, mineral flecked finish. That freshness makes the “la Hase” a very versatile food wine, going great with classic bistro dishes but also any weeknight staple like pizza, tacos or burgers. And not to belabor the point, but given its outstanding value you can have this on hand year round to use on just about any occasion.
