Even budding sommeliers know that a classic, textbook Grüner Veltliner should have hints of white pepper and maybe even a touch of fresh radish. These are tell-tale markers of this prolific variety whose heartland is the Danube river valley, especially in northern-central Austria, and today’s rip-roaring, spice-driven, super fresh discover is so pitch-perfect in its expression it should really be in the wine dictionary under “Grüner Veltliner.” Not surprisingly it hails from Kremstal, one of this grapes most important growing zones, and more specifically a string of vineyards that produce a wine that has been called “Sandgrube” since at least the 1001 AD. Those early medieval winemakers loved their Grüners spicy, and this was the spot where you grew it. Most wines with this pedigree and tradition fetch top dollar, but this profound overachiever is a crazy good deal–stock up!
The Aigner estate is located in the Kremstal, one of the “big three” of Austrian viticulture along with the Wachau and Kamptal. While it can be hard to differentiate stylistically between the three, we often find that Kremstal, with its heavier loess soils and grass-covered valleys splintering off the Danube river, produces an especially ample, textured, and spicy style of Grüner. Today’s bottling hails from a small stretch of terraced vineyards that are situated just east of the main town of Krems, stretching over to Rohrendorf, that (as mentioned) have been known for spice-driven Grüner for centuries. Indeed, the name “Sandgrube” has been used for these exact wines for over a thousand years. The Aigner estate is situated smack dab in the center of these parcels, and has been since 1773, so it’s no accident that they produce such a towering testament to this special terroir. While more glamorous wineries in the Wachau and Kamptal might aim to wow with luxurious textures and ample botrytis, Aigner’s pure, unadorned Grüner seems content to just wallop you with prickly spice, and crispy, crystalline pleasure and leave it at that.
Wolfgang Aigner is the ninth generation of farmer-winemakers to oversee this small estate, and he sees his job as essentially a caretaker of tradition. Of course there have been some necessary and useful upgrades to equipment and the winery in general over the years, but in essence the goal is to produce the same high quality Grüner (and a little Riesling) that has been made right here for centuries. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented in steel tanks then aged on the fine lees for several months before bottling. It’s a straightforward and simple process, again the special terroir and its millennia long relationship with the grapes that grow here are all that is needed to produce a stunning, and delicious bottle of Grüner Veltliner.
A sip of Wolfgang’s “Sandgrube” immediately conjures up the verdant majesty of this nook of the Kremstal. It pours a shiny silver with hints of green, and the nose reads like a checklist of what makes Grüner one of our favorite sippers: pops of bright citrus fruit, just-ripe white peach, white pepper, parsley and chervil–and of course that all-important pop of crisp radish. Beneath it all, a cool, thrumming minerality calling to mind wet river rocks. The palate is bright and lively, with a hint of spritz to it, layers of creamy texture undergirding it. “Sandgrube” beautifully toes the line between effortlessly drinkable and seriously complex—perfect for any warm-weather situation, but also worth savoring over a quiet dinner any time of the year. So be sure to grab plenty!
