The exquisite Sauvignon Blancs of Domaine Blanchet are not new to most of you; this bastion of traditional Pouilly-Fumé with over three centuries of winemaking history is long standing A-team producer at SommSelect. And as you probably recall, there are two distinct cuvées that we like to feature almost every time they’re released: “Silice,” and today’s star, “Kriotine.” In Francis Blanchet’s eyes, creating a lineup of high-quality Sauvignon Blanc boils down to one, simple mantra: Different soil? Different wine! “Kriotine” looks past the silex soils that form the prismatic mineral structure of “Cuvée Silice” and hones in on a tiny 1.7-hectare vineyard on chalky-limestone soils. Can you taste the difference? Oh yes. These ancient, limestone-heavy soils in the hands of Blanchet expertise create Pouilly-Fumé magic. Few wines define an entire region so consistently and pitch-perfectly. Layers of tropical fruit, citrus blossoms, and crushed stones blast out of the glass and race around your palate with zippy energy. It’s one of the cool moments in wine where you can nail the grape and place before even tasting—that’s Blanchet for you. Grab what you can, while you can because we received far less than usual!
Francis recognizes that his small-production Pouilly-Fumé is highly sought-after (his front door is imprinted by the knuckles of a thousand importers), so you’d expect one of two outcomes: an increase in production or ramped-up prices. Some producers get away with both, but Francis hasn’t done either, and, as we’ve mentioned before, the quality of each new release seems to reach unprecedented levels. It’s a traditionally crafted, extremely affordable, must-have ‘collectible’ for anyone who admires terroir, purity, and the value of a dollar.
Francis Blanchet has an only-in-France pedigree: his extended family has been growing Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly-Fumé since the 1700s (they are said to still have the original deed for the purchase of the vineyards). Today, Francis still remains active, but his son Mathieu has joined the ranks, representing the eighth generation. Despite their history, the estate remains rather modest in size at around 23 acres. That’s it. Today’s “Kriotine” (a play on the French word criots, which refers to a terroir covered in white stones), hails from a single, 1.7-hectare vineyard that was originally owned by Francis’ grandparents.
The fruit is hand-harvested and fermented using only ambient yeasts in stainless steel. Afterward, the resulting wine ages in tank for approximately six months, where it initially undergoes a bâtonnage (lees-stirring) regimen. It is then quickly bottled to preserve the freshness and strong mineral imprint. Whereas “Cuvée Silice” typically shows a nervy, edgy side in its youth, “Kriotine” reveals more broadness and juicy layers with less mineral nerve. Word on the street is that 2023 was an extremely challenging vintage in the eastern Loire Valley, but Mathieu and Francis have managed a small miracle–this is likely to be one of the best in class for 2023.
When consuming, simply pull the cork a few minutes beforehand (or decant for 15 minutes) then serve in all-purpose white stems around 50 degrees. Its highly reflective, straw-yellow core bursts forward with white peach, Asian pear, grapefruit, white peach, gooseberry, mango, salted Meyer lemon, oyster shell, acacia, and finely crushed stones that prickle with enlivening acidity. Again, the vintage brings some viscosity to the palate, delivering layers of ripe, rounded fruits leading to a deeply mineral finish. If you haven’t yet had a Pouilly-Fumé—or a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, for that matter—that made you say “wow,” I suspect Blanchet’s 2023 “Kriotine” will change that. For one occasion, I recommend gathering a few friends for a late brunch, opening a few bottles, and preparing the attached smoked salmon and goat cheese quiche recipe. Enjoy!
