The history of Champagne Lelarge-Peugot goes back over 200 years, which makes them one of the oldest family of growers in their home village of Vrigny, but that is just one of many ways that they have been pioneers in their region. They’re also one of the first to eschew chemical treatments, one of the first to go fully organic, and one of the first to receive organic and then biodynamic certification. Of course innovation and leadership are great, but how’s the actual wine? In a word, excellent. Meticulous farming equals pristine fruit, and that shows in this soaring, mineral-drenched, bone-dry sparkling masterpiece. And best of all, the price is extremely reasonable, especially considering the handmade quality and tiny quantity. Feel great, taste great Champagne: don’t miss it!
Pierre-Henry Lelarge moved to Vrigny in the early 1800s, got married, and started farming grapes for Champagne. Five generations later his ancestor, Raymond Lelarge, returned from WWI service and set about repairing and restoring the vines and cellar. In 1930 he became one of the first in his area to begin producing wine under his own label, making the family “early adopters” in the Grower-Producer movement. Very early to be precise. Today it is the 9th generation of Dominique Lelarge and his wife Dominique Peugot (yes, two Dominiques!) at the helm with their daughter Clémence. The whole team has been dedicated to natural farming and winemaking for over two decades now.
The philosophy at Lelarge-Peugot, in their own words is, “grapes are a gift of nature that must be respected.” The Dominiques see the vine as a living being and are constantly working towards applying new viticultural methods to create the ideal balance in the vineyards, utilizing biodynamic and organic approaches. They believe when the vineyards are free of chemicals, the vines can then show their true potential and the wine is much healthier for human consumption. Rings pretty true to me!
Most of their vineyards are in their home (Premier Cru) village of Vrigny, with the majority of their vines being planted to Pinot Meunier followed by Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The grapes are always hand harvested, then gently pressed into stainless steel tanks where the fermentation happens naturally (with native yeasts) at low temperatures. The finished wine is then aged on the fine lees for 10 months in a combination of large oak foudre and barrique, both neutral, and steel tanks. This release is based on the 2021 vintage, with the previous four vintages used in healthy amounts as reserve wines. As is the preference at Lelarge-Peugot the wine is bottled without added sugar (zero dosage) making it a true “Brut Nature.”
The recent string of very warm, dry summers in Champagne plays perfectly with the zero dosage philosophy at Lelarge. Serve chilled in all-purpose glasses and enjoy aromas that jump from the glass: Meyer lemons, yellow plums, crushed hazelnuts, puff pastry, and fresh white flowers. The palate is refreshing and creamy with flavors of lemon zest, yellow apple, plum skin, puréed nuts, and fresh brioche joined by a very fine chalky minerality which drives the long finish. I love this type of pure, unadorned Champagne with excellent precision and cut served along side simple crudo or sashimi. It’s also a winner with fried seafood or chicken. Even all on its own it is sure to both please a crowd, or maybe just an audience of one.
