As we’ve been learning firsthand in recent tastings, 2019 represents a major return to form for Barolo after a couple of so-so vintages (although, as always, there were plenty of excellent wines in those “so-so” years). It’s gotten to the point where the room buzzes with excitement whenever a cork is pulled on a ’19, and that excitement only grew as this impeccable wine from Mauro Veglio made the rounds. When a Barolo wine is “on” like this one was, it leaves everything else on the table in its wake (including many more-expensive bottlings). There’s just so much dimension, so much aromatic complexity, and, most of all, so much energy in this wine. It fairly hums with said energy, and it’s not at all out of bounds to think it will age for 20 years with ease. And all this can be yours for $55. What more needs to be said?
Well, let’s at least do our due diligence on the Mauro Veglio estate, which is headquartered in the famed “Annunziata” vineyard within the commune of La Morra. For the most part, the Veglio wines adhere to the brighter, less tannic, more perfumed style of wine La Morra is famous for, the family ultimately draws from a total of 19 hectares of vineyards spread throughout the Barolo DOCG zone. Although they produce vineyard-designated wines from the three greatest crus in La Morra—“Gattera,” “Arborina,” and “Rocche dell’Annunziata”—this “base” Barolo bottling incorporates fruit from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba in addition to La Morra.
Estate namesake Mauro Veglio has been at the helm of this historic family property since 1986, and in 2017, he brought his nephew, Alessandro, into the fold. Alessandro had been producing wines under his own label for many years, but decided to merge his operation with that of his uncle to take the brand to the next stage of its evolution. Their 2019 Barolo spent about 20 days macerating on its skins during fermentation and was aged for 24 months in French oak barriques, 20% of which were new.
Today’s ’19 reflects the relatively cool vintage, in that it is firmly structured and quite perfumed, with firm tannins that soften nicely with time in the glass. The Veglio wines always display a very well-calibrated mix of “modern” and “traditional” traits, in that they are clean and pure but with plenty of minerality and well-integrated oak. In the glass, the wine is a deep garnet red with pink and orange highlights, with perfumed aromas of wild strawberry, cranberry, black cherry, orange rind, sandalwood, wet rose petals, licorice, warm spices, tobacco, and leather. It has a kind of quiet power to it: The structure is such that you could happily enjoy it now following a 30- to 60-minute decant, or lay it down for 10+ years (at this price, of course, you can afford to do both). There’s simply no stretching your wine dollar any further than this—so grab a few bottles and enjoy the ride!
