There are still surprises in the world of wine, even in France, and even for world weary sommeliers like us. Take Juliette Avril as exhibit A: This historic estate in the heart of the Southern Rhône’s most famous appellation, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, was instrumental in putting their home village on the map. They make fabulous, textbook wines that showcase the region’s unique terroir, and yet they rarely enter the conversation among the “big boys” like Vieux Telegraphe, Beaucastel, and (whisper) Rayas. Why? We honestly have zero clue, but what we do know is that they 100% deserve to be in that sphere of reference, and in the meantime they remain perhaps the very best value in elegant, retro-styled Châteauneuf out there.

In the last few decades, many producers in the Southern Rhône stronghold of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have swung for the fences, aiming for unabashedly “modern” styles of wine—but not everyone. The ones who have resisted the trend are the exact producers we seek out, which is why we were so thrilled to stumble upon the iconic, resolutely traditional Domaine Juliette Avril. With so much history swirling around the estate, along with a strong allegiance to tradition, they have built up an impressive amount of old-vine real estate over the decades.

Here in the Southern Rhône, the expansive valley floor is planted mostly to Grenache, though the diverse soil composition (sands, iron-rich clays, limestone, and large, rounded large pebbles, or galets) allows for a vast amount of terroir variation. As a result, the region is home to more than myriad grape varieties, but Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre are typically the dominating varieties in these wines. An adherent to tradition, Juliette Avril incorporates all three, with Grenache making up the lion’s share of their cuvée. 

The family farms with respect to nature and biodiversity and does all harvesting and sorting by hand, usually during a one-week stretch in mid-September. Their flagship cuvée is comprised of roughly 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre and fermentation occurs in a combination of stainless steel and concrete vessels. Afterwards the resulting wine is transferred into demi-muids (large French barrels) for 12 months. In total, about 16 months pass before the wine is bottled with a very light filtration. 

Juliette Avril’s 2021 rouge reveals a shimmering ruby center that effuses bright garnet hues as you approach the rim. The overall impression is a sublime and regal Southern Rhône red that has the elegance of fine Burgundy, but make no mistake about its typicity and origin—as their winemaker says, “we are certainly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and nowhere else.” The bountiful and plush palate reveals an outpouring of densely layered brambly fruit and garrigue that is infused with ripe currants, raspberry liqueur, damp violets, herbs, olive, grilled meat, leather, and baking spice. It’s a wine that highlights every signature aromatic and desirable textural component of a world-class CdP. Rich, nuanced, and never overblown, this magnificent red glides across the palate with ultra-smooth tannins and pronounced acidity. For $44, you cannot find anything remotely on par with this. Serve in large Burgundy stems (Bordeaux works too) and decant for at least 30 minutes before enjoying alongside a gamey dish with a Provençal influence. Cheers!