Did you manage to grab a bottle or two of our epic 2009 Billecart-Salmon discovery this morning? We hope so, but even if you did, you might be wondering “But what if I want a Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs on a random Tuesday?” No fear, we have your answer with a special Friday night bubbles bonus: Chapuy’s best-in-class value “Brut Réserve.” Sourced entirely from the Grand Cru village of Oger, this is a bright, delicately layered beauty that shows every bit of its exceptional terroir, and it is made by a tiny, family-owned estate that has been farming grapes in Oger since the French Revolution. We’ve long been proponents of popping corks on Champagne whenever you feel like it, whether it’s as an apéritif with friends or for a casual dinner of pizza or fried chicken; this can be done when we find suave, sophisticated, artisanally made gems for less than $60. That’s right: Buy it by the case!
The Chapuy family traces its grape-growing history at least as far back as the French Revolution, which is when their ancestor became the mayor of Oger. This Grand Cru village sits at the heart of the Côte de Blancs, where soils of almost pure chalk dominate the landscape and produce Chardonnay that is transformed into some of the most exquisitely mineral, finely etched sparkling wine in the world. Today it is sisters Élodie and Aurore Chapuy who manage the vineyards and the cellar, using every bit of the family’s 250 years of generational knowledge to craft the most delicious and terroir-transparent wines possible.
The Grand Cru “Brut Réserve” is their calling card, made entirely from the best, historic parcels of Chardonnay. The sisters continue the family tradition of blending together tanks that undergo malolactic fermentation with those that don’t, in order to achieve an impeccable balance between just ripe stone fruits, creamy texture, and the classic, chiseled minerality of their village. The current release is based on the sunny, generous 2017 vintage but contains 57% of reserve wines, adding additional layers of leesy complexity. Bottled at the low end of “Brut,” with just 6 grams per liter dosage, this is clean, bright, and refreshingly dry Champagne. Perfect for almost any occasion.
Serve the Chapuy “Brut Réserve” in an all-purpose stem at a crisp 45-50 degrees and you’ll immediately notice the shimmering, white gold hue and delicate perlage. The Chapuy balancing act is on full display with up front notes of white peach, lemon-lime zest, fresh brioche, and honeysuckle giving way to more earthy/savory notes of wet rock, white pepper, and pure chalky minerals. It’s a no brainer with oysters, can be enjoyed on its own, or has the structure to stand up to more hearty fare like ramen or lobster bisque, but the insider pro move is to fry up some buttermilk chicken (or grab take out from your local restaurant) and go to town!
