Sourcing the best values in Champagne is like a game of whack-a-mole. You find something you love, and within a year or two, it seems the price is way up and you’re fighting for a small allocation. There are many examples of this phenomenon (Egly-Ouriet; Agrapart; Doyard; and many more) so the only thing to do is to keep looking for the next rising star and catch it while you can. And we have definitely caught that star today in the form of the magnificent “Terroirs d’Ecueil” from Champagne Lacourte-Godbillon.

Since 2006, when Geraldine Lacourte and her husband, Richard, left high-powered city jobs to return to her family’s business, this boutique estate has rocketed to fame for all the right reasons: They are farming organically and biodynamically and vinifying their wines plot-by-plot, in the manner of the greatest small producers of the moment. They’ve also received expert counsel from Eric Rodez, former chef du cave at Krug and a star grower in his own right, and it shows in the wines. What you see in front of you is a grower Champagne poised for superstardom, albeit one whose price doesn’t (yet) align with its superior quality. Consider this a “ground floor” opportunity to get in on something big—or maybe just stock up on delicious grower Champagne at an exceedingly reasonable price!

The Lacourte family has been farming the unique terroir around the village of Ecueil for generations, but like many of their neighbors, sold mostly to the local co-op until Geraldine’s parents started bottling some wine under their own label in 1968. When Geraldine and Richard decided to come aboard, they set about learning as much as they could about farming and winemaking. They had the good fortune to connect with Eric Rodez, and, with his help, they zeroed in on the art of blending micro-parcels to achieve the utmost balance, textural complexity, and pure drink-it-up deliciousness. They converted all their vineyards to organic farming and began using the marketing and business savvy from their previous careers to get their wines in front of the right people. Fast-forward 15 years and all that work is really paying off. 

“Terroirs d’Ecueil” is exactly that: a Champagne that showcases the terroir of Ecueil, their Premier Cru home village on the famed Montagne de Reims. The soils here have a healthy dose of sand mixed in with the clay and limestone, something that is not common in the Montagne de Reims. This adds extra elegance and a textural lift to the richness of Pinot Noir (85% of the blend) which reigns supreme in this region. Some aging of the base wines in neutral oak barrels, a healthy 35% of reserve wines, and a small amount of Chardonnay in the blend all contribute to a sense of precision and pedigree that you would expect to cost twice as much. After 30 months of sur lie maturation, the wine was disgorged and topped off with a modest five-gram dosage. 

This wine displays a brilliant straw-yellow core with light gold and green reflections on the rim. Rich and creamy aromas of red and yellow apple, quince, lemon blossom, white mushroom, honeysuckle, hazelnut, and delicate purple flowers are woven around a strong core of mineral notes. Excellent on its own, the Terroirs d’Ecueil has lots of structure and a palpable Pinot Noir character, making it a great candidate for pairing a wide range of dishes. So, grab a bottle for now and several more for the cellar because when this rising star leaves the atmosphere you’ll be glad to have your own private stash!