Corton-Charlemagne was once planted entirely to Pinot Noir. The Emperor Charlemagne was known as an epic party animal. To the great displeasure of his wife, Charley was notorious for drenching his white beard with red wine every time he threw a party, which was often. In an attempt to clean up his beard, if not his act, Missus Charlemagne had the entire vineyard re-planted to Chardonnay and the rest is history. Today, Corton-Charlemagne, exclusively planted to Chardonnay, is one of the most famous Grand Cru vineyards for white Burgundy in the entire Côte d’Or and delivers a depth and persistent minerality that makes it one of the world’s most compelling white wines. This time-honored example represents everything a Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne should be and is derived from old vines and an incredibly promising vintage.
The Grand Cru Vineyard of Le Corton shares the famous hill with Corton-Charlemagne, but it is conversely planted entirely to Pinot Noir. It is one of the 33 treasured Grand Cru vineyards for red wine in all of Burgundy. The lauded, south-facing and predominantly limestone vineyard delivers structured red Burgundy that rivals even Gevrey-Chambertin in its power and intensity. Planted when the current owner-winemaker, Etienne, was born, the 2012 Le Corton is hand-harvested then entirely de-stemmed prior to a 10-12 day maceration. The cap is punched down by hand prior to a gentle press. Following fermentation, the wine is racked from vat into barrel and matured for fifteen months before bottling without fining or filtration. The result is a pure, full bodied, intense and terroir-driven Pinot Noir that is crafted with the care this incredible Grand Cru site deserves.
The family winery for Domaine Marius Delarche is situated in the foothills above the village of Pernand-Vergelesses. They craft several wines from the hill of Corton – with an eye toward each tiny parcel’s individual terroir. There are no better stewards of this special pocket of Burgundy than the Delarche Family who is firmly dedicated to terroir-driven wines and allowing nature to take its course. Father, Philippe, and his son, Etienne, jointly tended the vineyards and crafted the wine as team until Philippe lost his long battle with cancer in 2008. Since then, Etienne has carried on and implemented the wisdom of his father while also utilizing his oenological education to produce beautiful wine one vintage after the next. Each bottling is stunning, but these two Grand Cru examples are the pinnacle of the estate’s production.
The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne displays a pale, golden yellow core with green reflections on rim. The intense, youthful nose is mineral-driven with aromas of dried pineapple, green peach and yellow plum elevated by hazelnuts, acacia and honeysuckle over vanilla bean and toasted French oak, which is showing intensely now, but will integrate beautifully over time. The palate is medium-plus in body and delivers powerful, compact minerality that dominates complex flavors of white peach, cut yellow apples, lemon blossoms and hazelnut. Trying to drink this wine now would be akin to conversing with a newborn. It is virtually impossible to experience the full potential that it has in store. If you do decide to drink this wine now, decant for two hours and serve at cellar temperature in Burgundy stems.
The 2012 Le Corton exhibits a dark ruby red core with slight pink reflections on the rim. Lively, perfumed aromas of ample spice and earth elevate the nose. Additional notes of freshly ripe black plum, black cherry and cranberry laced with dried black tea, mushroom, dried leather, forest floor, a hint of pepper, a touch of meat and crushed black rocks bring intricacy to the wine. The elegant and foreboding nose only hints at the complexity found on the palate, which delivers intense structure and defined tannins that wrap around a tight knit core of layered classic Corton flavors. This wine, like the Corton-Charlemagne, is a wine designed for those of you who are building a cellar. I would recommend drinking only one bottle in its youth and saving the remaining bottles for you cellar. True beauty will be revealed in 5-10+ years, although this wine’s 25th birthday will inevitably reveal an incredibly profound experience. For immediate gratification, decant this wine for two hours and serve at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. This structured, powerful Pinot Noir is just what traditional Boeuf Bourguignon was made for. Prepare
Julia Child’s classic recipe and enjoy with the best of friends.
