We’ve said it before, we’re saying it again: Barolo continues to offer some of the most exceptional values in world-class wine, period. Where else can you find a small, excellent estate making wine from a prized parcel within an acclaimed “cru,” and offering one of the very best vintages of said wine in a generation for a single c-note? The tried and true comparison to Burgundy reveals a simple truth: Scarzello’s Sarmassa “Vigna Merenda” stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the best examples of Clos de Vougeot or Le Corton. Indeed that comparison runs deep since both of those vineyards have internal parcels prized above others, much as the “Vigna Merenda” vines are for Sarmassa. Of course, the top tier of those Burgundian Grand Crus will set you back three, four, or five times what Scarzello costs, which brings us full circle to the unparalleled value of this wine and this region. 2016 is a vintage that will bring many, many years of pure joy to Nebbiolo lovers’ hearts, so load up with as much of this stunner as you can, while you can!
By the standards of Piedmont, and Italy generally, Scarzello is a relatively new winery, having been founded a little less than 50 years ago and producing their first vintage in 1978. For our purposes, that fact is most definitely working in our favor, because this small, expertly managed estate still flies very much under the radar of the press and the global Barolo fan club. Scarzello was blessed from the beginning with some top-notch vineyards, including a prime section of vines in the “Sarmassa” cru, and produced solid wines for the first two decades of production. But it was in 1998, when third-generation winemaker Federico Scarzello returned from enology school in Alba, that quality really began to soar. “Fede,” as his friends and family call him, has now been coaxing the full range of aromatic and textural complexity that his vineyards and their special terroir can achieve for over two decades.
Fede is and always has been a staunch traditionalist. He insists on long, slow macerations for Nebbiolo, and uses only very large oak barrels. For the estate’s top wine, “Vigna Merenda,” this means 30-50 days on the skins in large tanks before aging for at least 30 months in 25 hectoliter barrels, and then an additional three years plus in the bottle before release. All of this tradition unfolds in a very cold, very old cellar that is just steps away from the ancient castle of Barolo.
But expert, old-school winemaking is only impressive when you start with pristine fruit and phenomenal terroir. The Sarmassa vineyard is situated just north of the village of Barolo proper, with “Cannubi San Lorenzo” on its eastern flank and the “Cerequio” vineyard on the west, marking the border with the commune of La Morra. Indeed, the Scarzello’s sub plot, named “Vigna Merenda,” is situated on a ridge line that runs continuously from Cerequio into Sarmassa, and is dominated by a subsoil of clay and limestone marl. The slope has a classic south/southwest exposure, and the vines sit at around 250-300 meters of altitude. All of these factors contribute to the wine's ability to achieve that ultimate Barolo high mark, where power, elegance, and finesse are seamlessly woven together. “Vigna Merenda” is only produced in the best vintages, and 2016 was not only great but it is likely the most complete wine the estate has ever produced.
With an exemplary vintage like 2016, patience is needed. Ideally you rest your stash for at least five to 10 years, though it will age gracefully for many more. But, if you can’t resist opening one sooner to check it out (and we don’t blame you for that!) just make sure to give it a good, long decant. Indeed, our bottle was better on day two, and even better on day three! Serve at a cool 60 degrees in a large Burgundy or Nebbiolo stem, and prepare to watch the full spectrum of aromas unfold over many hours. The first whallops of rich, spice-laden cherries and black raspberries are followed by notes of plum skin, anisette, sweet balsamic, dried roses, cedar, mint, and then waves of earthy, mushroomy forest floor. If you’re drinking it young, a piece of fatty, grilled steak or lamb will pair nicely, but if you can wait a few more years then a traditional braise such as osso bucco or the recipe below for “Stracotto di Fassona” will make for an enchanting evening. Enjoy!
