Although Rheinhessen holds the most acreage out of Germany’s 13 regions, the superb quality coming from some producers in the last couple of decades is staggering. Wagner-Stempel is one of these select few gems. Starting in 1992, Daniel Wagner turned his family's mixed-produce and bulk-wine operation into a serious, Certified Organic, region-leading estate. As he gained experience and learned the nuances of his home village, Siefersheim, Daniel focused on two ancient-soil, high-elevation vineyard sites: Höllberg and Heerkretz. Today, these two prized sites enjoy Grand Cru (Grosse Lage) status.

I mention them because today’s “Porphyr” is a blend of the best parcels in both vineyards which are rooted in stony clay and sand with porphyry, an igneous rock replete with mineral crystals. After achieving full ripeness, a selective harvest was conducted by hand, the grapes were pressed and fermentation began. Aging occurred in a mixture of stainless steel tanks and large German casks.

While it’s hard to pick a favorite of the four wines (and I’m not going to!), Wagner-Stempel’s “Porphyr” might just be the most complex of the bunch—but it needs air! I recommend a 30-minute decant, and/or consumption over the course of two days instead of a single sitting. In the glass, it reveals an intense and profound nose loaded with green tropical fruits, lemongrass, grapefruit rind, damp herbs, spearmint, feijoa, and a pronounced stony-smoky note. The dry, medium-bodied palate is piercing and fresh yet broad and kaleidoscopic, and it continues shape-shifting with every passing hour. This is going to age beautifully!