If you seek out the world’s most iconic white wines, Guigal’s “Ex-Voto” is one of those treasures, and for an extremely limited time, you can own it at the world’s lowest price. This Marsanne-dominant blend is a wine of immense power; a quintessential, 18-year-old Hermitage Blanc that shatters the baseline for aromatic intensity and textural richness.
Robert Parker exclaims it’s certainly one of the most profound dry whites [he’s] ever tasted and Vinous’ Josh Raynolds directs consumers that it “should be served in homeopathic doses, such is its depth of flavor.” The reason is three-fold: (1) The historic “Grand Cru” hill of Hermitage is Shangri-La for Marsanne, (2) Guigal meticulously farms and sources their fruit from two tiny yet venerated old-vine parcels, and (3) the precious nectar matures in high-quality new French oak for a staggering 30 months. The result is a luscious, honeyed, and startlingly poised Grand Vin that solidifies its deeply celebrated status as a white-wine icon. Very limited quantities are available—up to three bottles per person—and given that we’re offering them at the best price anywhere, they should disappear exceedingly quickly.
When first learning about Rhône Valley producers, two of the most venerated are Guigal and Chapoutier. Both are family-run enterprises that purchase fruit from the valley’s greatest appellations while also maintaining their own enviable collection of vineyards. Guigal is largely synonymous with the Northern Rhône, specifically Côte-Rôtie (and their legendary “La La” trio) because their founder Etienne Guigal buried his roots here in 1924 and subsequently produced an astounding 67 vintages. Two generations have passed since then, and each has added to the empire’s fame: First, it was the acquisition of Vidal-Fleury, followed by the historic Château d’Ampuis, then Domaines Jean-Louis Grippat and de Vallouit. More recently, there have been several other property investments too, but today we’re focused on Grippat and de Vallouit in 2001. These new additions came with vine real estate on the fabled hill of Hermitage, which fulfilled a lifelong dream for the Guigals.
The Guigal family now owns four small parcels in Hermitage and two of those—“Les Murets” and “L’Hermite”—were utilized for today’s 2003 “Ex-Voto.” Both are steep, old-vine sites (50-90 years) with soils of granite/alluvial in the former and silty clay in the latter. In the cellar, fermentation, including malolactic, and 30 months of maturation took place in 100% brand new, tight-grained French barrels. In fact, starting in 2003, the Guigals launched their very own in-house cooperage so most, if not at all of the barrels used for today’s 2003 were dried, built, and toasted by their own team! Upon bottling, the final blend was 95% Marsanne, rounded out by Roussanne.
In a Bordeaux stem, the wine pours a deep yellow-gold, not unlike the hue of a young single malt. It displays a bit of aromatic reticence right upon opening, so we recommend allowing the bottle to rest 15-30 minutes after pulling the cork or 5-10 minutes in your glass to open up. At 18 years old, this is at its peak window and is flaunting some über-savory, ripe, and unctuous notes of grilled pineapple, quince paste, glazed apricot, orange marmalade, caramel, honey, dried chamomile, lemon curd, wax, baking spice, and a touch of almond skin. This is an intense and unabashedly full-bodied Hermitage Blanc oozing with dried and waxy orange-yellow fruits that are propped up on a surprising backbone of acidity. But even with its vividness, you will need multiple people to help take down this dry yet intoxicatingly rich beast: It is incredibly concentrated and extracted with broad and endless textures that are best savored in minute quantities. Drink slowly, pouring yourself just a couple of ounces at a time. Enjoy your bottles now until 2025. Cheers!
