Margaux is the undisputed champion when it comes to Left Bank dominance, and not just because it’s immortalized by its eponymous First Growth château, or that it has historically crafted the most polished, deeply perfumed Bordeaux. It’s because over one-third of all Classified Growths are locked into this legendary appellation, and when it comes to “Third Growths,” they’ve got an unbeatable roster: Palmer, Calon-Ségur, Cantenac Brown, Kirwan, Giscours, d’Issan, Malescot St. Exupéry—and that’s hardly a comprehensive list. 

Unfortunately, because of endlessly rising prices and the fierce grapple for elite Bordeaux, rare is the occasion we get to feature such an exquisite bottling on our site. Today is that rare day, a chance to savor a smoking, superbly elegant, nearly decade-old Third Growth stunner with impeccable quality and provenance. With today’s 2012 gem, Cantenac Brown once again proves they’re no strangers when it comes to the upper crust of Bordeaux. This is the type of savory, evolving Left Bank red that we lose our minds over. Enjoy slowly now or anytime over the next decade-plus. 

The commune of Margaux is a powerhouse, representing over a third of all 61 classified growths. It seems you can’t drive more than a few hundred yards in any direction without stumbling upon an impressive Palladian structure producing world-class wine—quite simply, it’s the epicenter of elite Bordeaux. Third Growth Château Cantenac Brown is one of these, although with its estate is Tudor in style, thanks to its Great Britain roots. Founded by Scotsman John Lewis Brown over 200 years ago, which only gave him a few decades to relentlessly seek out and nurture the finest parcels of land in Margaux. In 1855, he was rewarded by Napoleon III and his court when Cantenac Brown was given Third Growth status in the now-famous Grand Cru Classé classification system. 

Today, the estate is owned by the Burgundy-based Le Lous family and has grown to 60 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—expansive, yes, but still humble in comparison to famed First Growth Chateau Margaux. Because of the trying 2012 vintage, the Cantenac Brown team worked overtime in the vineyard by meticulously pruning to allow more sunshine, removing unevenly ripened grapes from each cluster, and harvesting at low yields over multiple passes and weeks. In the cellar, the Cabernet (65%) and Merlot (35%) fermented separately, by distinct lot, before blending and barreling into French oak, 60% new.  

Now this is a classic Growth Bordeaux! Elegantly layered, sublime, loaded with earth and savor—wines like this create that “aha” moment for those who still cannot grasp the unrivaled greatness of the Left Bank. With 30 minutes in a decanter, Cantenac Brown’s 2012 Grand Vin unfolds with soft, unobtrusive aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, roasted strawberries, dried black raspberry, wild plum, bay leaf, black tea, crushed rock, violet, and a touch of baking spice. The palate is superbly balanced with a plush core of dark berry fruit that’s enhanced by a firm mineral backbone. It’s precise, chiseled, and velvety all in one. The best part of all? This isn’t a vintage that requires 15-20 years of aging before a drinking window emerges—it’s already in the prime of its life right now, and will stay there for the next decade. This suave, top-shelf Margaux is one of the finest 2012 Grand Cru Classé values we’ve found yet. Savor slowly, in large Bordeaux stems. Cheers!