While many of you purchased Matthiasson’s electrifying, “old-school” Chardonnay back in March, we were left amused by a number of ensuing emails that all boiled down to one, simple question: “Where’s their Cabernet?” We weren’t surprised by the inquiries. Whenever there’s been a small window of opportunity to offer Matthiasson’s authentic Napa Cab, we’ve done so with zealous enthusiasm, and every allocation has been rapidly inhaled in one collective breath. Well, here’s your limited chance to acquire a few bottles of their newest 2016 release.
I refuse to believe any of our subscribers remain in-the-dark about these classy, sought-after gems, but if there is one out there: “Winemaker of the Year” Steve Matthiasson is a Master General of elegant, perfumed Cabernet Sauvignon and his ability to craft a brilliantly finessed wine that personifies the bygone era of Napa Cab is rivaled only by few. If you enjoy elegant Napa Cab, the complexities of serious Bordeaux, and the purity of fruit that comes from natural farming, Matthiasson must be part of your fine-wine rotation—they’re one of the most talked-about producers in California for a reason...
Having moved to Napa and toyed with a small parcel of vines in their backyard in 2002, how is it that Steve and his wife, Jill Klein Matthiasson, stand out among the hundreds of producers in the Napa Valley today? Well, their wines pack an astonishing amount of flavor into every ounce, at modest alcohol levels, and Steve’s deep knowledge in viticulture allows him to harness the power of the soil and vine. As stated on their website, the Matthiasons—who met at UC Davis and emphasize that their production is a family affair—believe that winemaking “...is a natural extension of farming.” It’s because of this philosophy that they’ve built a deep list of clients whom they assist with organic and sustainable farming (e.g. Araujo Estate, Spottswoode, Chappellet, and Dalla Valle).
So, yes, sustainability and organic farming is a necessity in their own vineyards and when they do source other fruit, they make sure it has been cared for in the same way. Take today’s Cabernet Sauvignon (it also contains a smattering of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot), which is a blend of six unique vineyards, both leased and owned. A few standouts: The “Red Hen” vineyard in Oak Knoll (owned by the illustrious Araujo family) produces tiny, superbly concentrated berries at very low yields; the “Dead Fred” vineyard is rooted in rich volcanic soils in the heart of Coombsville; and Matthiasson’s loamy-alluvial home vineyard is the coolest site of the bunch, allowing for great acid retention. Ultimately, this special wine is a masterclass on blending and balance.
In the winery, the grapes fermented at cool temperatures with low rates of extraction (it’s about perfume and elegance, not concentration and power) and saw twice-daily pump-overs. It’s also noteworthy to point out that Matthiasson understands the importance of undisturbed, extended aging for Cabernet, which is why they age theirs for 20 months in barrel, 20% new, PLUS an additional year in bottle before release. As always, this batch comes directly from them to you, only stopping at SommSelect to be stickered, packed, and shipped out.
When blind-tasting Matthiassson, I routinely misidentify it as a much-pricier wine and these consistent $75-$100+ calls speak volumes to their consistent, high-quality wines. First rule of thumb: air. Today’s 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon demands oxygen and the Matthaisson’s will be the first to tell you that “decanting is highly recommended.” So, pour into a deep decanter and allow the wine to open up for at least 60 minutes (two hours, preferably) before serving in your largest Bordeaux stems around 60-65 degrees. These wines are always the epitome of purity and elegance: The most vivifying blend of black, red, and blue fruit pour out of the glass followed by a powerful second wave of terroir and varietal identity: crushed black stone, tobacco, bay leaf, underbrush pencil lead, cigar box, wild violets, graphite, and baking spice. This holy trinity of black/red/blue fruit separates on the palate and individually announces itself with notes like wild huckleberry, cassis, black cherry, Damson plum, and black raspberry. Always lean, supple, and bursting with energy, the palate effusively welcomes a brilliant marriage of crushed-rock minerality and an underlying savoriness that all melds into a long-lasting finish. Matthiasson crafts gorgeous Cabernet Sauvignon, and I always look forward to each vintage. This 2016 can be enjoyed now, in 3-5 years, or 10+ years. Cheers!
