We consider it our duty as sommeliers to keep you well-stocked with proper rosé, especially as the Summer approaches—and by “proper” I mean rosé that’s treated like real wine, not a marketing gimmick. It helps that today’s 2019 from Domaine de la Navicelle is inexpensive—for an authentic, biodynamically farmed wine, no less—because as good as rosé can be, people don’t want to pay a lot of money for it.
We tend to forget how versatile a good rosé is with food, how transporting and “complete” they can be in communicating a sense of place; we just want something to sip by the pool. Well, I’ll tell you this: Regardless of
where I’m drinking it, I want
what I’m drinking to be the real deal. As we have noted many times before, Provence is arguably the rosé wine capital of the world and Domaine de la Navicelle is one of its rising stars: The estate was re-vitalized during the tenure of Jannick Utard (2006-2019), who achieved biodynamic certification for its 21 hectares of vineyards, and today a new team, comprised of viticulturist/winemakers Romain Magnanou and Alice Euvraud, continues his work. The classic Provençal mix of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah is a picture-perfect expression of place, a killer value, and handsomely packaged to boot! My suggestion is to stock up: Not only will you drink well, you’ll look good doing it!
When Utard took over viticulture/winemaking at the Navicelle property in 2006, the place was in some disrepair, but that was rectified quickly by owner Ingvar Kamprad, the Swedish businessman who founded IKEA. Kamprad (who passed away in 2018) poured a lot of passion and investment into Navicelle, which enjoys an idyllic location in the town of Le Pradet—right on the Mediterranean coast and just five minutes down the road from Clos Cibonne, makers of some of the most distinctive rosés in Provence. The vines are arranged in a south-facing, amphitheater-like bowl, rooted in classic, rust-colored Provençal soils of clay and limestone. Although previous vintages of the “À Flot” bottling contained some of the obscure Tibouren variety (made famous by Clos Cibonne), today’s 2019 is comprised of Cinsault (about 70%) along with Grenache and Syrah.
The biodynamically farmed, hand-harvested fruit for “À Flot” (“afloat”) is fermented in stainless steel and aged six months in a mix of stainless and concrete vats. From the get-go, there’s no doubting something Provençal is in your glass, as the color is a textbook onion-skin pink. Citrusy aromas of pink grapefruit and blood orange mingle with nectarine, lavender, melon rind, rose petals and subtle spice. It has good freshness but a well-rounded texture, perhaps thanks to a little time in bottle allowing some flesh to develop. Serve it at 45-50 degrees in all-purpose white or red stems with practically anything and it’s likely to deliver: grilled seafood; a salad heaped with tomatoes (when that time comes); cured meats and other appetizers; the list goes on. Attached is a terrific Provence-inspired recipe to get you in the mood. Enjoy!