Those with their finger on the pulse of Champagne know that the expensive, time-consuming “Méthode Traditionnelle” has no equal. And while this style is emulated around the globe, genuine, top-tier Champagne proudly stands alone in the pantheon of sparkling wine. There are rare exceptions, however, like Paul Nicolle, a producer whose deliciously authentic Chablis bottlings have sent shockwaves throughout our subscribership. But today, we’re showcasing something much, much different.
Their mind-blowing Crémant de Bourgogne is a Champagne-method sparkling wine produced entirely from 100% Pinot Noir within the confines of Burgundy. Where? That’s the correct, and most important, question to ask: We’re in Molosmes, a blink-and-you-miss-it village nestled right outside Champagne’s southern limits. It is, for all intents and purposes, a secret mecca for grapes destined to become elite sparkling wine. But Nicolle can only produce a few hundred cases of Crémant each year because their go-to source is an under-one-hectare parcel of Pinot Noir. From this, he hand-harvests a tiny crop and allows his wine to mature for nearly three years in total before blessing it with a judiciously low
dosage. A sublime sparkling wine infused with a fabled Burgundian terroir and eerily similar Champagne qualities—for $32? Need we say more?
The Paul Nicolle domaine is based in the village of Fleys, which sits a few kilometers southeast of Chablis proper, not far from the slope containing the region’s string of Grand Cru vineyards. It was begun in 1979 by Robert Nicolle (Paul’s son) and Josette Laroche, who started making wines from just one hectare of vineyard and have since built it up to ~20. Recently, the reins have been handed over to their son Charly, who spent several years working in Champagne’s southernmost region of Aube before coming aboard...see the connection?
In a recent interview with Pierre du Couëdic, the head of the Crémant de Bourgogne union, Andrew Jefford of Decanter learned that “there isn’t a single village in Burgundy that doesn’t produce grapes for Crémant.” That’s right, you name a prestigious town—from Rully to Beaune to Gevrey-Chambertin—and some of its crop is destined for sparkling wine. Today’s village in question, Molosmes, isn’t one that you’re probably familiar with, but it perfectly fits the mold for world-class Crémant de Bourgogne. Located in Burgundy’s northern extremes, this village is only a handful of miles to the southern border of Champagne.
Although they farm just .6 hectares of Pinot Noir here, they still ruthlessly sort their crop and take half of the maximum-allowed yield. Another impressive feat is that nothing is outsourced for their crémant—everything is done in-house. After fermenting, it spends more than a year in tank BEFORE entering the bottle you see in front of you today. From there, another 16 months (minimum) pass before disgorgement and a light five-gram dosage.
It’s this long aging, plus a storied Burgundian terroir, 100% Pinot Noir, and the méthode champenoise that creates a sparkling wine of superb energy and mineral depth. Had I tasted it blind, I’m near-certain Champagne would’ve been the most logical call. Poured in an all-purpose stem around 45-50 degrees, Paul Nicolle’s Crémant de Bourgogne reveals an electrifying nose combining delicate fruit, florals, and crushed minerals to harmonious effect: vivid notes of red apple skin, salt-preserved lemon, Rainier cherry, redcurrant, red and yellow plum skin, chalk, oyster shell, and truckloads of pulverized stones carry over to a tension-filled palate. It’s bursting with supernatural energy and unafraid to show you the mineral power of a terroir essential straddling Burgundy and Champagne. Look no further if you seek an outstanding, prestigious, and affordable-to-all sparkling wine to keep around the house. Cheers!
