Because we have so few magnums of this exceptional white Burgundy to sell, I don’t know how much of my excitement for it I should share here—I don’t want to anger those subscribers who miss out. But as a Burgundy fanatic, and a superfan of Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur, the arrival of even a few bottles of their Premier Cru “Perrières” is cause for celebration around the SommSelect warehouse.
We received a very small, but very precious, parcel of 2016 magnums from Bitouzet-Prieur, and while it may not need to be said, I must say it anyway: This combination of vintage, vineyard, and vintner is simply awe-inspiring at this price. We’ve spilled a lot of ink over the opulent (if small-quantity) 2016 vintage, and just as much about the classically styled whites (and reds) of Bitouzet-Prieur. If you long to experience pure, textbook Meursault, Bitouzet is your ticket—and when you look around at what other big-name Meursault producers charge for their “Perrières” bottlings (Coche-Dury’s ’16 goes for $2,000+, and that’s for a 750ml!), it makes nabbing a MAGNUM for less than $300 feel like some kind of mistake. Well, it’s not a mistake—and the wine delivers, besides, which is why Bitouzet-Prieur has been a SommSelect go-to since Day One: Burgundies of such exceptional quality and typicity, at this price, are a dying breed! Grab a magnum for yourself quickly before they disappear!
I continue to wonder if Meursault will ever see some of its top vineyards elevated to Grand Cru status. If that ever comes to pass, there’s no doubt “Perrières” will be one of them: As celebrated author Clive Coates, MW, has said, Perrières is the Premier Cru that “most people would agree produces Meursault's best wine.” Wedged between famed neighboring Premier Cru Meursault “Charmes” and the northern border with Puligny-Montrachet, the shallow and limestone-rich Perrières is known for producing Meursault of unparalleled precision and structure. It’s no surprise, then, that this site is home to some of Burgundy’s greatest names and highest-priced whites (Roulot’s ’16 Perrieres goes for $1,200+ for a 750ml, to give you another example). Meursault Perrières always seems to sit one step above its slightly softer, less-sophisticated neighbors.
François and Vincent Bitouzet’s family has been living and working vines in Meursault for hundreds of years and today, they hold what is probably the village’s single most diverse and impressive collection of real estate. The Bitouzets farm their narrow, piano key-shaped slice of Meursault Perrières with the same zero-compromise approach as all their sites in the village—organically, with zero chemical herbicides or pesticides. All fruit is farmed and harvested by hand. This restraint and patience is echoed in the cellar, where juice is vinified gently and slowly with modest sulfites and zero effort to expedite or simplify the process. The end goal is to produce a quintessential and classically styled expression of Perrières that matures in the cellar for years while gradually deepening in aromatics and complexity. In a region increasingly overrun with labels bottling young, forward, “modern” white Burgundy, the Bitouzet family are arch traditionalists. These wines offer a memorable reward to those patient enough to cellar them.
The generous 2016 vintage may tempt you into pulling the cork on Bitouzet’s Perrières earlier than usual, but try to resist the temptation for a few years at least: this is an exceptionally taut, filigree expression of Meursault terroir that promises an explosive payoff with a little more time in the cellar (especially given the slower-maturing magnum format). The dense palate is full of yellow apple, asian pear, and lime blossom fruit coating a firm and flinty mineral core. Raw almond and lightly toasted hazelnuts meet white flowers and citrus blossoms to fill out this bottle’s perfectly fine-tuned nose. It’s slow-gestating wine so I urge you to drink it slowly. If there’s a special occasion coming up soon for which this magnum would be just the ticket, decant it a good hour before serving at 50 degrees in large Burgundy stems—and don’t worry if there’s some left over, as it will continue to deliver on days two and three! I’m guessing this wine will really peak in about five years’ time and continue to evolve positively through its 20th birthday, but whenever you choose to open it, be sure to showcase it alongside something special. Check out the attached recipe of poached cod with potatoes and leeks. It’s a perfect accompaniment to a benchmark Burgundian white. Enjoy!
