Marion-Bosser doesn’t mess around when it comes to their Vintage Champagnes, although this will be breaking news to most since these opulent, long-aged gems are only produced in the smallest of quantities. Take today’s mega-blockbuster 2012 release: A mere 250 cases we’re produced and only 10 are in our possession.
So what is it, besides absolute rarity, that makes this bottle a collector’s dream? For one, it’s a masterful blend of Grand Cru Chardonnay and 1er Cru Pinot Noir from a handful of Champagne’s most-distinguished villages. Equally important is the legendary vintage: all of today’s explosively ripe, fully-textured fruit comes from a growing season on par with the all-time classic of ‘90, ‘96, and ’02, with many on record saying it’s undoubtedly one of the best years Champagne has ever witnessed. While a world-class terroir and Mother Nature’s blessing is an unbeatable one-two punch, we also mustn’t ignore the extraordinary skill of Marion-Bosser. Having personally visited them in Hautvillers, I can confidently say their classic ‘Burgundian’ philosophies and forbearance in the cellar is outstanding. Case in point, today’s 2012 was crafted with sustainably farmed grapes, spent over 66 months on lees before disgorgement, and saw an additional year of cellaring before a small public release. And now, this small trove of elite Vintage Champagne is finally up for grabs.
Somewhat of a rarity in Champagne (and, still, the entire wine world), Marion-Bosser is an entirely female-operated estate. Nearly ten years ago, cellarmaster Elodie Marion took over the family domaine after working with famous Burgundian names like Patrick Piuze of Chablis and Henri Boillot of Meursault. Marion-Bosser’s female ownership dates back much further, though: The domaine has been in the family’s possession for over 100 years, having transitioned from mother to daughter with each passing generation. It wasn’t until 1994, however, the family took a huge step and decided to make wine themselves. Elodie’s mother, Bernadette, began studying and subsequently crafting wines in their hometown of Hautvillers (they are just a few doors down from Dom Perignon’s resting place). Today, Elodie and Bernadette tag-team the operations, and their grandmother still helps in the vineyards come harvest time!
This 60/40 Chardonnay-Pinot Noir blend is sourced from some of Champagne’s greatest terroirs. The Pinot Noir is sustainably farmed from their small holdings within the Premier Cru villages of Hautvillers and Cumières, and their Chardonnay comes from the Grand Cru villages of Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant. Translation: heaps of pedigreed terroir packed into one bottle! This mother-daughter operation is also an advocate for sustainability—they plow their vineyards, debud and thin the vines manually, and apply natural fertilizers. Their mature vines average 40 years of age and, as is the law in Champagne, all grapes are harvested by hand. The grapes are then gently pressed at a local cooperative and alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks (for today’s 2012, one-third of the wine went through malolactic fermentation). Once the wine was bottled in the beginning of 2013, they aged undisturbed on their less until disgorgement in October of 2018. Each bottles was dosed with less than seven grams of sugar and allowed to rest an additional year after being sealed under cork.
If I was forced to sum up Marion-Bosser’s 2012 Premier Cru in a sentence, it’d be “a broad, richly textured Champagne with impeccable style.” But it deserves much more than a succinct overview: This displays an astounding level of concentrated, high-toned layers and releases a powerful concoction of grilled pineapple, yellow apple skin, Bosc pear, plump Rainier cherries, brioche, lees, honeysuckle, fresh acacia, Meyer lemon, crushed stones, oyster shell, and chalk. The palate is full, sonorous, and dripping with lush citrus/stone fruits that vibrate with crushed mineral tension and mouthwatering acidity. It’s a perfect example of a perfect vintage, and when this rare occasion happens, you must pounce. Best of all, the bulk of aging has been done for you so this eight-year-old stunner is fully ready to be enjoyed now (although it has a decade-plus of evolution left). I recommend serving in all-purpose stems around 50-55 degrees and savoring over the attached recipe if you plan on showcasing it alongside a main course. Cheers!
