Last year, we were lucky enough to receive a small amount of Conti’s severely limited, highly buzzed-about 2015 release and, as expected, our stock took a rapid nosedive to zero. We were left twiddling our thumbs and crossing our fingers, hoping we’d get a shot at the new vintage...whenever it arrived. Instead, we were gifted with a first-ever opportunity of what we previously thought was impossible: A second chance! We learned a much-smaller batch of 2015 had left Conti’s cellar and their importer was giving us the very first crack yet again. Based on our bloated inbox, it seems many of you are also eagerly awaiting an additional crack at it too.
For the first-timers: When this micro-production bottling is released—in the years the Conti sisters deem the vintage great enough—it is snatched up in an instant. The reasons are manifold: Conti only farms a couple hectares of vines; their wines have proven ageability; and they consistently outperform many blue bloods of Barolo and Barbaresco down south. From a rarefied, high-altitude haven, Boca is one of the smallest yet historically grand wine regions imaginable. Previously Italy’s epicenter for Nebbiolo production, the “alto Piemonte,” of which Boca is part, had become largely abandoned. But a few steadfast winemakers dug in their heels and today the region is enjoying an explosive renaissance. This, of course, hasn’t gone unnoticed by critics. Their voices have carried wide and far, emptying into Michelin restaurants and echoing off the cellar walls of serious collectors. So, take what you can, stow it away in a dark place, and enjoy over the next several decades.
[NOTE: This limited re-offer is coming to us directly from New York, so please allow a minimum of three weeks for delivery.]
The village of Boca is one of the smallest wine appellations in Italy, made up of only a handful of hectares split between eleven families (at one point in the ‘90s, only 10 hectares of vine remained!). Like Barolo 90 minutes to the south, the Nebbiolo grape reigns supreme and soils are dominated by limestone and clay. However, there are some small details that set Boca—and especially the wines of the Conti family—apart from the pack. First, the blending varieties Vespolina and Uva Rara play a quiet but masterful supporting role behind Nebbiolo in today’s wine. Next, if you look closer while walking the Conti vineyards, you’ll notice some of the most exotic-looking soil ever planted to Nebbiolo. The Conti’s tiny holdings are full of porphyry and crystals held together by reddish sand and clay. The soil literally twinkles in the sunlight and its unique mineral composition is evident in every sip.
The Conti sisters understand that such unique terroir and their combined years of perfecting organic and biodynamic practices (herbicides have never been introduced to their vines) means they need not fuss too much in the cellar. There is very little in the way of technology or modern gadgetry at Conti. The minuscule amount of juice produced from their vineyards is fermented in a stainless steel tank. There are twice-daily punch-downs during fermentation and after malolactic fermentation is complete, the wine is transferred to old, handmade, 500-liter oak botti. It rests here for a minimum of three years before bottling and then sees further maturation prior to release—today’s 2015 is their current vintage. Because of 2015’s abundant crop, this is one of the largest years of production they’ve had, and yet they only emerged with 205 cases. A fraction of that made its way to America.
A bottle of Nebbiolo vinified at Conti remains some of the most expressive and beloved wine in this corner of Italy. Even at this nascent stage, it’s a Nebbiolo of infinite intrigue, releasing dried cherries and roses, plum skin, black raspberry, dark earth, black truffle, dried herbs, and aniseed that carries over to a full-bodied, formidably structured palate. Still, despite persisting tannins and coursing acidity, the inimitable elegance and finesse of Conti is on full display. These wines can age with the very best Nebbiolo bottlings, so one must absolutely save the lion’s share for many years down the road—10, 20, even 30 years from now. If consuming in the near future, make sure (1) the occasion warrants the opening of this special bottle, and (2) ample time is spent allowing this wine to breathe. I recommend a minimum two-hour decant before serving in Burgundy stems around 60-65 degrees. Seriously, take your time savoring this rare Italian gem because you’re one of the few who will have the opportunity. Cheers!
