Based in the La Morra hamlet of Santa Maria, atop the cru vineyard called “Roggeri” (where they farm three hectares), the estate was founded in 1958 when Crissante Alessandria decided to begin bottling some of his own wines from vineyards that had been in his family for generations. Centered on the Capalot and Roggeri vineyards, the family-run property has remained small and focused, and today totals about six hectares—all within the commune of La Morra, which neighbors the town of Barolo to the north. Eighth-generation vignaiolo Alberto Alessandria joined the family business in 2007, and since then the family has made significant investments in both the winery and vineyards (including converting to organic viticulture, for which they await certification) to increase their profile.

The Alessandrias are the best-known producers of Barolo from the Capalot vineyard, which itself is best known for supplying part of Roberto Voerzio’s legendary “Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate” bottling (which is no longer made). They typically produce single-vineyard bottlings from Roggeri as well. Today’s wine is just the second vintage of their “del Comune di La Morra” bottling, which is sourced primarily from the clay-rich, east-facing Roggeri (60%), with the remainder coming from the neighboring “San Biagio” (20%) and “Bettolotti” crus, both of which feature slightly sandier soils and more southerly aspects. Fruit from the different crus was fermented separately, after which the individual lots were blended the following Spring and aged 24 months in mostly large oak ‘botti grandi’ (large vats of Slavonian oak). If you’d like a handy tutorial on what La Morra Barolo is all about, pull the cork and pour some of this ’15: It’s a more ‘feminine,’ less aggressively tannic expression of Nebbiolo, grown in vineyards oriented more toward the morning sun, in soils with a touch more clay than those further to the east in Serralunga or Monforte. 

Of course, this is still Nebbiolo we’re talking about, so there’s enough tannin and acidity to support this wine’s continued evolution over the next 10-15 years (and beyond). But there’s subtlety, and a touch of silkiness, already on display. In the glass, it’s a translucent garnet-red moving to burnt orange at the rim, with perfumed aromas of wild strawberries, sour cherries, orange peel, cranberry, rose petals, tea leaves, pepper, graphite, and underbrush. Within the realm of Barolo, I’d label it medium-bodied, with firm, silky tannins and lots of dried flower and mineral savor on the finish. The aromatics are already well-developed, but with a few more years in bottle this should really be something to behold—as its edges soften and its shoulders broaden, its red berry fruit will come more to the fore to match all that spice. If you’re enjoying a bottle soon, decant it about 45 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60 degrees. I always prefer young Barolo a little cooler, to mute Nebbiolo’s naturally high alcohol, and believe me, the difference between 60 and 70 degrees is huge. As for a food pairing, well, I know I’m a little bit of a broken record, but risotto is always my first thought for Barolo. You don’t want to use this wine for the cooking part—just the drinking part. Enjoy!