Burgundy is full of family dynasties large and small, so while its physical landscape doesn’t change, its wine landscape is always in flux. This is not just a vintage-to-vintage thing, but a generation-to-generation thing; the constant, of course, is the vineyard land. So, while there’s nothing new about the Puligny-Montrachet
lieu-dit (named site) called “Les Tremblots,” this stunning 2016 from Domaine Albert Joly will be an exciting discovery for many.
If you like Coche-Dury, Arnaud Ente, and Hubert Lamy, this wine will be your new best friend. In a nutshell, it’s as good as Puligny-Montrachet gets, and it comes to us from a new-generation vintner, Sylvie Prevot-Joly, who only began “estate-bottling” wines from her family’s vines in 2007. Wine importers the world over are forever combing the streets of Burgundy for tiny, impeccable producers like this one—the under-the-radar talents that make you feel like you just discovered fire. Not to wear my biases on my sleeve, but tasting this ’16 was not just a master class in classic, high-toned Puligny-Montrachet character but a reminder of why great white Burgundy has no peer. The star-bright energy, the minerality, and the creamy texture are all there, courtesy of the Joly family’s 60-year-old vines. I can’t come up with enough superlatives for this wine, and unfortunately, I couldn’t come up with many bottles, either: We can offer up to six bottles per customer until our allocation disappears. Those passionate about white Burgundy should look no further!
The main reason so few bottles are available, by the way, is that very few are made. The Joly estate consists of just 11 acres of vineyards, all of them in the commune of Puligny-Montrachet but not all channeled into commercial production. Sylvie and her brother-in-law, Gilles, continue to sell more than 80% of their fruit to négociants (merchants), as her father, Albert, had always done. The family’s parcel of Les Tremblots, which sits at Puligny’s border with Chassagne-Montrachet, contains its oldest vines: 60 years on average.
I taste a lot of white Burgundy, from all appellations and price points, and this one is a near-perfect expression of Puligny-Montrachet—exceptionally pure and electric, with the beautiful balance of ripeness and freshness that characterized the 2016 vintage. In the glass, it displays a deep straw-gold core with green highlights at the rim, with perfumed aromas of salted Meyer lemon, tangerine, lime blossom, yellow apple, wet stones, lots of white flowers, and a hint of fresh cream. It is leaning toward medium-plus in body, but with dazzling, enlivening freshness that promises to preserve it for at least a decade longer before it begins to fade. What a wine! I would recommend decanting it about 30 minutes before serving at 50-55 degrees in all-purpose white stems or even Burgundy bowls to allow its full aromatic range to develop. Pair it with seafood or chicken dishes with a nice amount of acid in them and you’ll be in Burgundy Chardonnay heaven. If you love Puligny like I do, you can’t miss this one. Cheers!