Global sensation Donald Patz has enjoyed a wildly successful career by extracting the seductive aromas and profound depth of Pinot Noir, and wine critics have rewarded him handsomely: For decades, Patz’s wines have consistently placed at or near the top of Sonoma Valley ‘best-of’ lists and, for that, the spotlight has followed him. So, when he announced in 2017 that he was making an amicable departure from Patz & Hall—a region-defining label that he grew to international stardom over his 30-year tenure—all eyes were watching.
That same year, he made his way deep into Russian River Valley, located some gold-standard vineyards, and, like a viticultural mixologist, masterfully blended the prized fruit together. He emerged with only one limited, small-batch Pinot Noir. And, after maturing in tightly-grained, high-quality French oak and resting further in bottle, today’s richly layered, Grand Cru-level Pinot Noir is finally making its worldwide debut. This singular bottle has reinvigorated my already bright outlook on Russian River Pinot Noir by proving it can hold its own with the all-time greats of Burgundy, California, and Willamette Valley. Put simply, it’s a remarkable “first-ever” release, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise seeing as it’s crafted by one of California’s sharpest wine minds. Quantities are very limited!
When you put in hard work, it pays off, and that couldn’t be truer for Patz & Hall, a label to which Donald Patz committed 29 years of his life and one that enjoys global, buzzworthy exposure today. But, just like any passionate individual, he wanted to keep exploring: “I had some things I still wanted to do in the wine business,” he says, so Donald reached out to his lifelong contacts, explored Russian River Valley’s top-performing vineyards, and began imagining what his micro-label would look like. He emerged with Maritana in 2017, just in time for harvest, and for his inaugural debut ended up crafting three Chardonnays and a single Pinot Noir.
The wine’s fantasy name—“Le Russe”—translates to “Russian” and was mostly sourced from the acclaimed Dutton Ranch in the special sub-AVA of Green Valley, as well as two other premium sites: Jayda Hill and Monte Cristo. Each lot was sustainably farmed, hand-harvested, carefully sorted, and fermented (approximately 33% whole-cluster) separately with regular punch-downs at a small custom crush facility just outside of Santa Rosa. Upon completion, the resulting wines were blended together and barreled down in French oak—67% new, 33% used.
Pull the cork on today’s 2017 “Le Russe,” splash it in a decanter, and do your best to let it soak in oxygen for at least 60 minutes before transferring over to large Burgundy stems. I promise your patience will be rewarded: The wine is an explosively aromatic showpiece that dazzles with extremely high-toned rose petals, violets, redcurrants, wild strawberries, and forest floor and damp mushroom. The more you swirl, the more pronounced these aromatics become, to the point where you’ll find yourself transfixed before taking the first sip. When you finally do enjoy it, get ready for a sublime beauty that’s been buffed and shined to perfection. There are zero edges and angles on this Pinot Noir—it provides a full, luxurious mouthfeel with layers of lush wild berries, pomegranate, cola nut, and a mouthwatering flurry of baking spices that glide across your palate. It has a great deal of aging potential despite being so enjoyable today. I’m predicting its peak window to arrive around 2025, although I can easily see this lasting 10-15 years. If you’re enjoying one soon, try out the attached duck breast and cranberry sauce recipe for a truly memorable experience. Cheers!