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Moric, Hausmarke “Supernatural”

Burgenland, Austria 2018 (750mL)
$29.00
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Moric, Hausmarke “Supernatural”

You’re not in the minority if you don’t know Moric, but I assure you that window is rapidly closing: Not a day goes by where someone, somewhere—be it Tokyo, London, New York, Paris, or Sydney—is exposed to the ineffable magic being created here, so it’s high time we all started paying attention. Shaking the hand of winemaker Roland Velich, walking his ancient vineyards, seeing his master craftsmanship at work in the cellar, are among the chief reasons why many wine professionals are inspired to visit Austria’s Burgenland in the first place.
Still, there’s nothing quite like tasting them: These wines are incredibly genuine expressions of purity and precision in Austria’s hallowed terroir. “Moric is a star in this world,” says New York Times’ Eric Asimov. They make the best Blaufränkisch on the planet” exclaims global icon Jancis Robinson, and it’s “vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy” states Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. And that’s just for their red wine! That’s why we’re excited to unveil their energetic, mineral-infused white blend (Grüner Veltliner/Chardonnay), a “Supernatural” wine that would simultaneously dazzle and perplex the world’s greatest tasters. Although this wine is part of Moric’s house wine (“hausmarke”) series, there is ironically never enough quantity in America to fulfill that duty. It’s heartbreaking, too, because when you can find an otherworldy wine experience that marries the wildly enticing allure of Burgundy and Austria, who in their right mind wouldn’t always want that on hand?
After traveling and studying the world’s greatest terroirs for more than 10 years, Roland Velich came away with one defining principle he employs at Moric (est. 2001) every day: it’s all about individuality. Making a wine that has a raw identity, a wine that refuses to hide behind anything is, in fact, everything. From top to bottom, you will only find purity and distinction in his wines (although his top Grüner and Blaufränkisch bottlings constantly draw parallels to Grand Cru Burgundy!). One thing you can always expect is that Velich’s old vines and one-with-nature techniques in Austria’s Burgenland will deliver a wine that is discretely distinct. 

The Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, has a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain. Moric’s organically farmed vineyards (he hasn’t sought certification) are situated primarily in the Mittelburgenland sub-region and Velich describes the soils as varied, with some limestone and slate mixed in with loam. His “Supernatural” Weiss (white) is an 80-20 blend of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay that was gently pressed and slowly fermented with ambient yeasts. It then aged on its lees in a combination of large, neutral barrels and stainless steel. 

You’ve had Chardonnay (lots of it). You’ve had Grüner Veltliner. But very few, if any, have had a blend of the two. In the hands of Moric, it’s unlike anything else. It has the creamily textured layers and complexity of Burgundy, but it also has the beguiling spice, herbs, and citrus piquancy of Grüner. I would ‘pity the fool’ who had to blind-taste this, but I’d be incredibly jealous of anyone who drank it without me. “Supernatural” is a mesmerizing white that reveals lime blossoms, Anjou pear, Meyer lemon, orange oil, underripe peach, fresh green and yellow apples, honeysuckle,  fresh cream, crushed stones, and a faint beguiling mixture of herbs. It’s crisp and addicting palate delivers a mouthwatering cascade of just-ripe citrus and bushels of orchard fruit. Serve in all-purpose (or Burgundy) stems around 55 degrees—nothing colder than 50, please—and enjoy over an evening or save some for night two. I can certainly see this evolving over the next 2-3 years, but I bet that won’t matter after you open your first bottle. In other words, this disappears QUICKLY! Enjoy!
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Country
Austria
Region
Burgenland
Sub-Region
AustriaMittelburgenland
Soil
Mixed Loam & Limestone
Farming
Practicing Organic
Blend
Grüner Veltliner 80%, Chardonnay 20%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Partial Neutral Barrel
TEMP.
50-55
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2025
Decanting
15 Minutes
Pairing
Snapper Escabéche

Austria

Northeastern Austria

Weinviertel

Considered by most to be the oldest growing zone in Austria, Weinviertel is also, geographically, the largest in the country and covers the vast, northeastern expanse of Lower Austria, stretching from the western border of Slovakia, following the Danube inland and veering up to the southern border of Czechia. Its name, which translates to “wine quarter,” reflects the region’s rich, ancient wine heritage and, according to the Weinviertel DAC website, there are “7,000 years of artifacts to prove it.”

Northeastern Austria

Wachau

Austria’s Wachau appellation is the country’s most acclaimed region. About an hour northwest of Vienna along the Danube River, the vista of the steep, terraced vineyards of the Wachau creates a magnificent landscape akin to a verdant, ancient amphitheater—it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, after all. With rich and unique soils here of löess and gneiss, which lend vivid minerality to the wine.

Eastern Austria

Burgenland

The Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, has a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain.

Southeastern Austria

Steiermark

The region of Styria (Steiermark) is in southeastern Austria which sits near the border with Slovenia. This area is studded with long-extinct volcanoes whose deposits are a key component of the local soils and the vineyards benefit from a classic Austrian push-pull of cool Alpine air and warmer “Pannonian” currents from the east.

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