No one is quite sure how it got away from us, but two full years have passed since we last offered Coho’s “Headwaters,” a rapturous Cabernet blend that became one of our fastest Napa Valley sellouts ever. If that doesn’t cause you to sit straight up, welcome to SommSelect—because longtime subscribers know just how much it takes for us to be genuinely moved by a Napa red.
Don’t get us wrong: We love Cabernet blends, but with so much competition and too many high-priced labels to count, we’ve set the bar high up in the clouds. The main reason you see “Headwaters” in front of you right now is that it boldly checks off one of our “Holy Grail” descriptors: a wine that tastes expensive but isn’t. This is a serious, densely structured Cabernet-heavy red and at five years old, its multi-layered notes of oak spice and savory earth are integrating seamlessly. But it’s more than just an incredibly lush and vibrant bottle of Napa red—this has legitimate cellar potential, so whether you’re seeking a mindblowing experience with your friends/family tonight or are looking to stock up for the years to come, today’s 2014 “Headwaters” is the indisputable answer.
Coho was founded in 2002 and initially focused on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s sub-AVA of Coombsville—where many shrewd producers are currently flocking. The creation of “Headwaters” red blend, however, did not happen lightly. During the harvest of 2005, a rogue arson attack razed a communal warehouse to the ground. Nearly all of three years of Coho’s production was destroyed (988 out of 1,000 cases of their 2003 vintage). What did remain was the juice at the winemaking facility, but, of course, that wasn’t commercialized until barrel aging and bottling was completed the following year. In addition, their source for Cabernet from the Michael Black vineyard in Coombsville enjoyed an exceptional Merlot harvest, so the decision was made to blend that into Cabernet Sauvignon that was donated to them by local winemakers. This generosity and ‘coming together’ resulted in the birth of “Headwaters.”
Coho’s owner, Gary Lipp, has a long history in wine, having worked with names like Heitz, Mondavi, and Chappellet—where he met his now-lead winemaker, Phillip Corallo-Titus, one of Napa’s more prominent names. You may recognize him from his work at Chappellet, Titus, or Hertelendy (recently featured here). Alongside Phillip is Brittany Richards, who had stretches at Chappellet (which seems to be the starting point for Coho’s team) and Peter Michael Winery. The team may be small, but their combined track record shows that talent and passion are surely present.
The large majority of grapes in “Headwaters” are sourced from the original location in Coombsville, a sub-appellation that sees extended fog cover—which moderates heat spikes—and can average temperatures ten degrees cooler than its northern counterparts (only Carneros sits closer to the San Pablo Bay). This results in higher levels of acidity in the grapes and generally a more even ripening season. The blend for 2014 “Headwaters” was 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 11% Petit Verdot, and the wine aged for 21 months in French oak, 40% new. This batch hasn’t moved from its original resting place since it was bottled in July of 2016. Nearly two years in barrel and three in bottle? Yes, please!
In the glass, 2014 “Headwaters” shows a brooding dark garnet that moves out to hazy ruby. From start to finish, it’s an intense experience that delivers heaps of dense, luscious fruit and mouthwatering elegance that shows best after 60 minutes in a decanter. In a large Bordeaux stem around 60 degrees, it’ll reveal layers of crème de cassis, black cherry, black raspberry, Damson plum, cacao, damp violets, tobacco leaf, and a fusion of savory spices. The palate flaunts a luxurious mouthfeel with rich flavors of vibrant berry fruit, dark chocolate, and crushed gravelly earth. It’s undoubtedly a full-bodied Napa red, but Coho’s ability to remain pure, utterly soft, and beautifully integrated is a true rarity. As previously mentioned, this can be enjoyed now or in the next decade-plus to come—what’s not to love at this price!?