Once wines like “Sassicaia” proved that Tuscany’s Mediterranean coast could produce world-class reds, the migration of talent and capital to the region was swift. It was a modern Gold Rush—the gold in this case being that inimitable Tuscan sunlight—and it wasn’t just an Italian phenomenon but an international one.
French grapes, and French winemakers, are well-represented in Tuscany’s Maremma, and, as exemplified by wines like “Il Caiarossa,” there’s no arguing with the results: This estate may be relatively new to the scene, but once you look behind the label a bit, the assurance and authenticity of its wines is no surprise. We’ve been lucky enough to become acquainted with this property through some rare, back-vintage bottlings—most notably today’s 2008, which captures the spirit and the terroir of the Tuscan Maremma as well as any wine I’ve tasted from the region. Combining a multitude of grape varieties, including the “French” Cabernets, Merlot, and Syrah alongside traditional local cultivars such as Sangiovese and Alicante, “Il Caiarossa” is a true “first wine” in the spirit of a top-tier Bordeaux château. Now with more than 10 years of age, it is just getting started, with one foot in the Left Bank and the other in the sandy, rocky, gently rolling hills of the Val di Cecina—about a half-hour north of Bolgheri, home of Sassicaia (and so many others). We offered the ‘entry-level’ red from this estate previously, so I can say with confidence that this wine takes you to the next level. And to be able to get a back-vintage bottle straight from the winery? Another level still. Don’t miss this!
What’s ironic about the Maremma gold rush is that a lot of the land along Tuscany’s coast was, at one time, a malarial swamp. You’d never know that to look at properties like Caiarossa, which is (a) nestled in coastal foothills inland from the coast, and (b) so beautifully appointed and artfully designed it takes your breath away. Although it was originally founded in 1998, Caiarossa’s rise to prominence began when it was acquired by Eric Albada Jelgersma, a Dutch businessman and art collector whose expensive tastes and worldly sensibility informed everything the property has since become. Jelgersma, who passed away in 2018, also owned Château Giscours and Château du Tertre in Bordeaux, and assembled a Franco-Italian team to oversee production at Caiarossa. In addition to planting “Bordeaux” varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Merlot—all of which have a long history in the Maremma—Caiarossa also made room for Tuscany’s Sangiovese and Alicante, the latter thought to be a remnant of Spanish occupation of the Tuscan coast in the 16th century.
The Caiarossa property, still part of the Albada Jelgersma family holdings, extends over 70 hectares, much of it woodland filled with cork and holm oaks; there are about 30 hectares of vines spread across several farms—both certified biodynamic by Demeter in 2005—one with more marl and sandstone in the soil and one more sandy/clayey. The Etruscan clay sculpture depicted on the label—the head of the Greek God Dionysius—is based on an actual piece from Jelgersma’s collection, which was unearthed in the nearby Tuscan town of Volterra.
Based on the “château model” of Bordeaux, today’s wine, known as “Il Caiarossa,” is the “first wine” of the estate—the top selection from its vineyards. In 2008, the varietal breakdown was Cabernet Franc (29%), Merlot (16%), Petit Verdot (16%), Syrah (14%), Alicante (14%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Sangiovese (3%), with each variety fermented separately in a mix of concrete tanks and 50-hectoliter wooden vats. Before blending, the different lots were aged for 12 to 20 months in French oak tonneaux, 30% of which were new, followed by six months in concrete after blending.
Even at more than 10 years of age, there’s a detectable, expensive-tasting oak component to this 2008, but there’s so much going on beyond that: In the glass, it’s a dark ruby-black moving to garnet at the rim, with aromas of black currant, cassis, black plums, violets, cocoa, coffee grounds, and dusty earth. It is full-bodied and its tannins have integrated beautifully, creating a plush, silky texture on the palate. Give this 30-45 minutes in a decanter and serve it at 60-65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems with a hearty winter braise—this wine being the blanket to wrap yourself in! Although it’s still got 7-10 years in the tank, I don’t see the sense in waiting. Pull the cork and enjoy the ride!
