Rapid sellouts are always a bittersweet thing around here. While we’re thrilled to see our subscribers zealously snatching up sought-after wines, many are left empty-handed. But sometimes, a sellout can unlock the rarest of opportunities: After running through Pehu-Simonet’s 2011 “N°3” several months ago, we got in touch with the importer and, because of your enthusiasm, were gifted the precious remains of their ultra-rare 2012 “Fins Lieux N°1.”
This 100% Pinot Noir bottling comes from a prized lieu-dit in the Grand Cru village of Verzenay, and for those who snagged the first Pehu-Simonet, this is an entirely different sensory experience. Thanks to organically farmed Grand Cru Pinot, French oak vinification, and 6+ years of cellar aging before disgorgement, this 2012 “N°1” comes at you in electrifying, multi-dimensional waves and floods your palate with a long-lasting mineral imprint. In other words, you won’t be forgetting this exceedingly rare Grand Cru Champagne anytime soon. Besides, it hails from the soon-to-be-legendary 2012 vintage (seriously, it’s that good) and with such a microscopic production, it’s value will only keep rising. For the uninitiated, Pehu-Simonet is a name that’s been making major global noise over the last decade, largely because they farm organically, only bottle Grand Cru juice, and focus on site-specificity, as made apparent by their “Fins Lieux” luxury lineup. Today’s offer is one of those rarefied bottles, and, in our humble opinion, the greatest we’ve experienced from their treasured lineup. Only 12 cases remain!
Fourth-generation David Pehu of Pehu-Simonet has given his estate a makeover in recent years that has rocketed it up the pecking order of elite, terroir-specific Champagne. The Pehu family, however, has been crafting Champagne since the early 1900s, proven by old ‘Veuve Pehu’ labels that are on proud display at the estate. When David’s parents formed Pehu-Simonet in the 1970s, it also came with a handful of premier vines from his mother’s side. This combination seemed to pave a clear path for him: Since 1988, David has been at the winemaking helm.
Today, David farms just 7.5 hectares, six of which are located in Grand Cru villages. As for the other 1.5 hectares? The fruit is sold, as David only wishes to bottle wines containing the very best fruit. Today’s Blanc de Noir is his special 100% Pinot Noir bottling from the Grand Cru village of Verzenay. More specifically, it hails from “Les Perthois,” an organically farmed parcel that hugs the border of Verzy. A trained Burgundy enologist, David used secondhand Burgundy barrels (and some stainless steel) for a slow, cool vinification. Afterward, the wine was transferred into bottle where it aged on its lees for over six years until disgorgement in January of 2019. Only 1.5 grams of sugar were added to the dosage.
Let’s start with a few guidelines because if you treat “Fins Lieux N°1” well, it’ll return the favor tenfold. Firstly, no cylindrical stems—this Grand Cru Pinot needs to breathe! An all-purpose stem is ideal here, but you can certainly experiment with Burgundy stems too. Secondly, keep the drinking temperature around 50-55 degrees, and thirdly, try to extend your bottle as long as possible. Over the course of dinner, it changed so much for me and, frankly, I was a bit upset that I didn’t save any for the following day. That’s the power of the 2012 vintage and a perfectly sculpted Champagne. In the glass, it unfurls with compact beads that race up and burst with aromas of plum, red apple skin, redcurrant, Rainier cherry, apricot, crushed chalk, damp red flowers, and a touch of vanilla. On the palate, the thundering intensity of Grand Cru Verzenay is on full display: The Pinot Noir releases dense, highly energized red fruit that melds with a fierce backbone of crushed minerals and laser-beam acidity. Again, the more air this gets, the more it opens up its arms and invites you in. And the aging potential on this? Off the charts! I foresee this lasting another 10 years before it starts losing steam, but that shouldn’t stop you from opening up a few bottles now. Just take your time enjoying them, and you’ll understand why we were so thrilled to receive this precious parcel. Cheers!
