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Waterfall, El Dorado Albariño

California, United States 2016 (750mL)
$25.00
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Waterfall, El Dorado Albariño

We idolize Napa Valley for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Rita Hills for “Burgundian” varieties, and parts of Amador for its gnarled old vines of Zinfandel, but El Dorado proudly hangs its hat on diversity. It’s an organized chaos of microclimates with phenomenal elevation, well-draining volcanic and granitic soils, and thus a fascinatingly diverse multitude of white and red grapes for wine.
It’s one of the few places in our country where Albariño tastes like Albariño, albeit a bit fleshier than its Spanish counterparts, but completely alive and full of energy. Today’s wine could actually lead a person tasting it blind to say it was in fact from Spain. Crafted by talented Helen Keplinger, this 2016 from Waterfall shows the vast potential for the grape in California. When California restaurant industry veteran Boris Guillome decided to create his own label in 2013—with the goal of sourcing the best-possible fruit from exceptional sites—he knew exactly who to call, and his collaboration with Keplinger has yielded exciting results in the El Dorado Hills. This is one of the most curious, fun, and promising wine regions in the US, and Waterfall takes full advantage, sourcing its Albariño from a special one-and-a half acre site. Taste this deep, fragrant, authentic take on Albariño and I think you’ll agree: There’s still gold to be found in “them thar” hills!
A sub-appellation of the broader Sierra Nevada Foothills, El Dorado has attracted the brightest winemakers in the industry, including Duncan Arnot Meyers (Arnot-Roberts), Steve Edmunds (Edmunds St. John), Jared and Tracey Brandt (Donkey & Goat), and, of course Helen Keplinger (Keplinger wines and formerly Bryant Family). The soils of the Delfino Vineyard, where Waterfall is grown, have what Boris describes as “Aiken-strewn soul.” Also found on Napa’s Howell Mountain, Aiken consists of very deep, well-draining soils formed from weathered volcanic rocks. So, what’s the good news for Albariño grown on Aiken? Low yields, muscled fruit, and off-the-chart aromatics. And, at 2,600 feet elevation, the fruit has plenty of breathing room to ripen, organically developing its crucial aromatics and locking up its scintillating acidity.

Today’s 2016 has the luscious starburst fruits of Albariño with the creaminess of a fine Chablis. Sustainably farmed, hand-picked and hand-sorted fruit ferments in neutral Burgundian oak barrels, which fleshes out the middle palate, adding texture without compromising freshness or aromatics. The aging process is smart and makes sense: eight months on the lees, in a combination of neutral oak and stainless steel. Serve the wine as you would a Premier Cru Chablis—at a temperature in the low 50s, in all-purpose white wine stems, to fully experience the aromatic range on display.

In the glass, a medium straw core moves into faint gold-yellows and a watery rim with a star-bright hue. On the nose, the aromas are a multi-dimensional mix of lemon, honey, orange blossom, quince, white stone fruits, and thyme. Sweet cream, sour melon, and wet stones enliven the palate with bounces of tartness and texture. The finish moves from fleshy to feathery, expansive then taut, friendly with considerable length for Albariño. There’s enough gentle richness here to play with the creamier types of seafood, like lobster and crab. Breaking down and cleaning these crustaceans is intimidating, so find a reputable shop to source the meat and pour this Albariño with some jumbo lump crab cakes—an “American” seafood preparation for this uniquely American white. Enjoy!
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Country
United States
Region
California
Sub-Region
United StatesEl Dorado
Soil
Volcanic
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Albariño
Alcohol
13.8
OAK
Partial Used French
TEMP.
45-50
Glassware
All-Purpose Whites
Drinking
Now
Decanting
Optional
Pairing
Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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