Without a doubt, Cabernet Franc is having a moment. For years now it’s labored in the shadow of its offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. But more and more wine lovers—and winemakers!—are deliberately seeking out its inimitable perfume, structure, and bright energy for more than just a supporting role as a blending grape.
I find myself recommending Cabernet Franc to people looking for an alternative to top Cru Beaujolais, Red Burgundy, or any wine that balances bright fruit with elegant structure. And nowhere does Cabernet Franc shine as a solo act quite like the Loire Valley, especially when the vines are old, the farming is organic, and the winemaker knows how to let the fruit speak for itself. Marc Plouzeau has perfected traditional Cabernet Franc production in Chinon, where his family has been making wine since 1846. Their single-vineyard “Les Lisons” epitomizes everything we love about the grape. It’s a mineral and energetic red with a perfect interplay of fruit, flowers, and earth. This 2018 release is ready to warm you from the inside out as the nights turn cooler and a glass of rosé just won’t cut it anymore. Best of all, it’s affordable and versatile enough to pair with your favorite comforting autumn meals, all season long and into the next few years.
The wine is a bright, concentrated ruby-garnet in the glass with darker purple reflections. We love Cabernet Franc for its heady, floral perfume and this glass doesn’t disappoint. It’s like burying your nose in a bunch of wet, purple Heliotropes, spicy cherry pie and rich garden mulch. That initial sweetness on the nose is a precursor to darker, greener flavors: think sweet cigar smoke, wet cement, cranberry juice, and fresh thyme. Above all this wine is juicy, dense, fresh, and alive! Its medium-plus body is carefully balanced by refined tannins of extraordinary length. Fresh, natural acidity means there’s a wonderful versatility for food pairings—as the nights start to cool and harvest nips at our heels, we’re looking for a more substantial meal to ease the transition into autumn. Try a buttery, garlic- and herb-filled ratatouille stocked with all the seasonal veggies you can carry home from the late-summer market. Les Lisons will stand up beautifully to a rich, parmesan-laden bowl of slow-simmered veggies, especially if you’ve got a chunk of bread to mop up the sauce. You can drink the wine tonight and revel in the intensity of that fresh, savory fruit, or cellar this bottle for the next 5-10 years and watch as those fine-grained tannins become slippery as silk. Either way, don’t miss this quintessential Chinon!